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By Mara Bivone
Vienna 2007
Restaurant Steirereck (Im Stadtpark, am Heumarkt 2A, +43-1-713-3168), is a wonderful place in a restored fin-de-siecle pavilion in the Stadtpark, with elegant atmosphere, flower-filled rooms, and an imaginative, seasonal, mostly Styrian kitchen that also offers a few international contemporary dishes. Outstanding selection of wines from a very well stocked cellar (reportedly over 30,000 bottles), and cheeses from Steirereck's own cheese cellar.
Heinz Reitbauer, the current chef and a member of the family that owns the restaurant, prepares very nice food, often combining unusual ingredients to create delicious and aesthetically pleasing dishes but his creations are nowhere as exquisite as that of his predecessor, Chef Helmut Österreicher, who had been at the restaurant for decades. I like Heinz’s dishes, even though Austria's main gourmet guide, Gault Millau, has removed one of their “toque” ratings – down to 3 toques now, from 4 under Österreicher. Personally, I prefer the Steirereck essbar (http://steirereck.at/wien/essbar/) located in the same building, where they offer little dishes in a bistro-style setting. Both the restaurant and the essbar have very nice patios overlooking the park. Strangely enough, the restaurant is closed on the weekend (Saturday and Sunday).
If your tastes run towards “grand” architecture and plush, wood paneled Victorian rooms, then the Imperial Restaurant in the Imperial Hotel (Kärntner Ring 16, +43-1-5011-0356) is definitively for you. Flawless service and impeccable cuisine mark this old-world dinning room, where you dine under the watchful eyes of Hapsburg portraits hanging on the walls. I had only lunch there, but I will be returning for a full meal, in the very near future.
Palais Coburg Residenz (Coburgbastei 4, +43-1-5181-8800), is a world renowned five star hotel located in the heart of Vienna. It was the palatial residence of members of the Saxe-Coburg-Gotha dynasty, whose descendants resided there till 1978. Six centuries of architectural masterwork have been preserved and skillfully restored. The award-winning Gourmet Restaurant Coburg, is the fascinating domain of Chef Christian Petz whose highly inspired cooking is firmly based on Austria’s great culinary tradition. Creative interpretations of classic dishes are paired with outstanding wines from the superb Coburg Wine Archive; a series of 6 wine vaults that hold more than 100 years of rare wines (over 31,000 bottles), champagnes (more than 1300 bottles, up to and including nebuchadnezzars) and the largest collection of Château d’ Yquem wines outside France. The staff provides courteous service amidst elegant surroundings.
Our friend Nick suggested we eat at Café Landtmann (Dr. Karl Lueger Ring 4, +43-1-2410-0120) next to the Burgtheater, a throwback to Vienna’s golden years of brass-and-dark wood splendor, a century-old favorite of politicians, theater stars, and celebrities. Both Beethoven and Freud used to be regulars here, not to mention Burt Lancaster, Hillary Rodham Clinton, and Sir Paul McCartney. Not as touristy as other establishments in the area, it attracts the well heeled and well connected, who come for business lunch or dinner, under the glimmer of gorgeous crystal chandeliers. They also boast a Landtmann Torte, which is deliciously between a chocolate mousse and a cake!
© January 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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