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by Manos Angelakis
Every time I have wine with a meal, I’m reminded of my paternal grandfather, who lived to be over 100 years old, and never had lunch or dinner without a glass of wine. He did not drink larger amounts, just that one glass, but it had to be the best available. He believed that the wine -- and later-on in life a glass of “tsipouro” Crete’s version of Grapa -- greatly contributed to his good health. Now, scientific research is affirming my grandfather’s beliefs.
The producers and négociants of Vacqueyras, a rather recent (1930) addition to the Côte du Rhône wine-growing region, had a press lunch at Union Pacific in New York City early in November, to introduce some of their 2000, 2001 and 2002 wines. These wines should be in the US marketplace by March 2004, at the latest.
The wines we tasted were all reds, made from a mixture of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. There are 170 growers in the Vacqueyras AOC that produce mostly red wines (97%), 2% whites and 1% rosé. The predominant grape is Grenache -- according to the appellation rules Grenache must be at least 50% of the blend, but in most blends it was much more than that.
The younger reds were ruby-hued, the more mature a deeper red, almost garnet colored. Black cherry, red forest berries and figs with a hint of smoke dominated the nose; blackberry and currant, licorice and tobacco notes were on the palate; most had well-structured tannins.
Chef Rocco DiSpirito’s cuisine married well with the wines tasted.
The appetizers, circulated by waiters, were a spicy lamb tartare and gougers and they were perfect for the 5-wine opening salvo. Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Floureto 2001; Domaine la Garrigue, Les Genestes 2001; Maison Brotte, Bouvencourt 2001, Maison Bouachon Caves, Saint Pierre, Vacqueyras 2001 and Maison Delas, Domain des Genets, 2000. The last two stood out in the flight, with Domaine des Genets (a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre) tasting the best. This is a full-bodied, well structured wine with a long finish. About 30% is aged in oak barrels while the rest is kept in stainless tanks, to preserve the fruit and aromas.
The first plate was Crispy Sweetbreads, with roasted cauliflower and pickled onions. It was the canvas to present from Cave de Vignerons Les vins du Troubadour, Cuvee du Preseident 2000 and Domaine Mas du Bouquet 2002. The last is a private property that makes a smooth and supple wine (65% Grenache, 35% Syrah). A powerful wine, too young at present, it shows promise of good things once it is aged a bit. Les vins du Troubadour (a blend of 75% Grenache, 15 Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre) was smooth, bright red, with red fruit aromas and woodsy notes. I’m not a friend of sweetbreads, but the wines more than made up for them.
The main course was Tamarind Lacquered White Peking Duck, with plantains and long beans. With it, Les Vignobles Mourre, Domain les Colombiers Vieilles Vignes 2002 and Arnoux et Fils, Cave du Vieux Clocher 2001 were poured. The Domaine le Colombier is 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. Interesting spicy and blackberry aromas on the nose, it is well structured and balanced. A good counterfoil to the sweetness of the plantains. Cave du Vieux Clocher is, I believe, one of the oldest wineries in the region, registered in 1717. It makes a fruity but full-bodied wine that is aged in vats and was a good foil to the slightly gamey taste of the tamarind lacquered duck breast.
Last, an assortment of cheeses brought Domaine des Amouriers, Les Genestes 2001, a wine aged for 16 to 18 months in cement vats that is decent if not particularly memorable, and Domaine de la Tourade, Vacqueyras 2001, a young wine that needs bottle age, but went well with the King Island Blue, one of the cheeses in the assortment.
All these wines are priced at $12 to $25 retail.
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