|
By Barbara Penny Angelakis
 Turkuaz
2637 Broadway
New York, NY 10025
212-665-9541
www.turkuazrestaurant.com
This month we are making a 180 degree turnaround in our ongoing adventure for the “Brunch Experience in New York City” with a visit to a local neighborhood eatery; one that serves Sunday brunch with a decided vegetarian attitude, in step with their New York City Upper West Side clientele. On the southwest corner of Broadway at 100th Street, is the modest entrance to Turkuaz that belies the size and comfort of the interior restaurant.
Turkuaz leaves little doubt as to its ethnicity even before entering the restaurant, with a lush street window display of fruits,  dried nuts and seeds bountifully presented in baskets and earthenware bowls with Turkish motifs. After a warn greeting at the entrance by the Manager, Mr. Hakan, we were invited into the long narrow bar area which on Sundays doubles as the buffet. The room is a cornucopia of savory dishes appetizingly laid out on three levels, and all are made in-house by Chef Dilaver Aydin and his staff. Chef Aydin who is a native of Istanbul, learned and practiced his craft in Turkey before moving his family to the US only 6 years ago. His Ottoman kitchen proudly turns out authentic dishes made in traditional ways. The lunch and dinner menu feature many meat kebobs and fish dishes but for the Sunday buffet the emphasis was on meze: small plates of hot or cold appetizers for which middle-eastern cuisine is famous; all for a modest fee of $14.95. The prices in general are moderate with appetizers in the $4.95 to $7.95 range and entrees in the $10.50 to $21.00 range.
 The interior room is decorated to resemble a desert tent and with its soft lighting and waiters clad in traditional felt embroidered vests, it presents an inviting atmosphere to go on an ethnic culinary adventure; or for the less adventurous, to stick with the tried and true. With the buffet offerings of approximately 5 different breads, 75 different and distinct dishes and 10 deserts, there is plenty of variety to select from. After being seated and ordering the traditional glass of white lightning known in Turkey as Raki and in the rest of the Middle-East as Arak (a licorice tasting clear liquid which is poured in small doses and to which ice and water are added turning the drink cloudy and softening its strong effect) we made our way to the beginning of the buffet table.
The friendly staff will gladly help with explanations of unfamiliar dishes but even if you are a fan of Turkish food, you will find many unusual offerings to choose from. Try the sweet sauce made from Pomegranate juice which can be eaten with bread or served over fresh fruits as well as some of the home made jams and jellies unlike anything I’ve had before. There were many vegetable dishes new to me as well, such as the broccoli in a yogurt sauce that was crunchy and smooth,  cool and tangy, all at the same time. In fact, if you like yogurt, as I do, there were many dishes of yogurt or yogurt mixed with vegetables and/or nuts and all of them were delicious and well worth sampling. Especially heavenly was the Haydari, a thick yogurt with garlic, dill and blanched walnuts. Also of note was the pickled beetroot with garlic salad; the Zeytinyagli Yaprak Dolmasi (stuffed grape leaves with rice, pine nuts, currants and the chef’s special herbs). The Mücver or zuchini fritters with scallion, yellow squash, feta cheese, egg and dill were also exceptional. Unfortunately, some of the hot dishes were not, and that detracted from their taste and texture, such as the Sigara Böreği (cigar-shaped pastries stuffed with feta cheese and parsley) or the Ispannakli Borek (pan fried stuffed spinach pie) and the thick crunchy Pide bread which when heated and slathered with one of the savory spreads is a meal in itself. But the cold salads were wonderful and there was a great variety. I must have counted 6 eggplant dishes… all different and all good. The meat dishes were limited but the Ciz Biz Kofte (char-grilled meatballs the size of flattened golf balls) were perfectly spiced and while no longer hot were nevertheless delicious with a dollop of Cacik (yogurt dip with cucumber, garlic and dill) on top. Most of the  dishes were very rich in flavor but a few were on the spicy side and for those that enjoy a little kick from their food, just ask to have the spicy dishes pointed out… you can always cool them down with a yogurt sauce if you happen to bump into a hot pepper.
The deserts made on premises, included Kadayif (shredded wheat) and Baklava - Chef Aydin prides himself on making the best Baklava east of the Caucasus - and puddings and custards as well as a large selection of fresh fruit. Tea is served in small traditional glass tumblers with cubed sugar and the Turkish coffee was made properly and well, no small feat even for a New York Turkish restaurant.
© March 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
|
