Issue:
September
2011

By Manos Angelakis
Bottle photography by Tsantalis Winery. Grape Cluster photo by Manos Angelakis

With every new vintage, more quality Greek wines are becoming available to the international market. Even wineries that were in the past considered low quality mass producers are now creating some very impressive product. Younger, classically trained winemakers who studied abroad, either in Bordeaux or California, bring better technology and a progressive attitude, as they are taking over the rains of the industry, improving their family vineyards or starting their own independent operations 

A very good example is the Tsantalis family winery located mostly in Northern Greece, with vineyards in Thrace, Mount Olympus, Mount Athos (Agio Oros), Naousa, and some other Greek viticulture areas, plus acreage on the island of Lemnos that produces a superb, highly aromatic, dessert wine from Muscat d’ Alessandria.

We had a tasting of the Tsantalis wines imported to the US on July at the Thalassa Restaurant in Manhattan’s Tribeca district.

Some general observations.

Most of the wines were blends of either two or three Greek varietals or Greek and international varietals. For example, amongst the white wines we tasted were, a blend of a dry fermented Muscat d’ Alessandria and Chardonnay under the 2009 Kanenas (trans. No One) brand, and a blend of Asssyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc under the 2009 Metochi Chromitsa brand. Both were medium aromatic wines, crisp, with rather elevated acidity. When first tasted at a walk-around tasting without food, they seemed just too acidy and harsh on the palate. However, when drunk to accompany an appetizer of Diver Sea Scallops wrapped with Kataifi (the shredded wheat pastry used in Greek desserts) in Sheep’s Milk Butter, and a fish course of Lavraki (sea bass), both wines seemed perfect, cutting the richness of the appetizer with the acidity, to create a well balanced mouthfeel and, of course the acidity also paired well with the fatty fish. There were also two reds served with the fish that paired very well with it as they were medium bodied and crisp, which belies the conventional wisdom of “white with fish, red with meat”.

Another example were the red wines served with the meat course which was charcoal grilled lamb chops, a very Greek dish. The wines were 1997 Naousa Reserve, an 100% Xinomavro wine, the 2005 Metochi Chromitsa X (a blend of Xinomavro, Limnio and Cabernet Sauvignon), and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Organic, another 100% varietal. Again, the acidity - while seemingly elevated when drunk without food – became harmonized when paired with the fat and smoky lamb chops.

The point I’m trying to make is that Greek wines are created to accompany food and without it, they sometimes feel off balanced and acidic. Or, as my grandfather used to say “Have a meze to enjoy your wine; never drink on an empty stomach.”

Another general observation is the alcoholic content of the wines. While California, Tuscany, and Rioja, and other wine producing areas are now presenting us with 15% to 15.5% alcohol wines that seem ponderous with unbalanced heft, most Greek wines remain in the 12% to 13% range, an alcoholic content that works well with the average Greek dish, and should work perfectly with many dishes from other cuisines.

The Tsantalis wines are made from grapes grown at high altitude, in Northern Greece. So, even though Greece has generally a hot climate, the wine is made from cold-climate grapes, which explains the elevated acidity.

A wine that I thought was perfectly made was the 2003 Agioritiko Abaton (trans. Not  Treaded, referring to the monastic community of Mount Athos), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Limnio. This was a mid-bodied red, with a very distinct personality. Youthful plum, cherries and berry fruit envelop soft tannins. A clean fresh finish. Very nice wine, but a bit pricey at a SRP $49.95.

There was also a vertical of Rapsani Reserve, a red that I really like, though sometimes it becomes a bit harsh on the finish and requires long cellaring to mellow. It is a blend of three Greek varietals: Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavroto. We tasted 5 vintages, 1995, ’96, ’97, 2000, and 2006. The earlier versions, ’95 and ’96, had plenty of time to mellow and balance and were very enjoyable, though the ’96 seemed to be starting to fade a bit. The ’97 and 2000 were perfect. The 2006 was a bit young for my taste. Though I like the Rapsani Reserve fairly young, I would cellar this particular vintage for a few more years.

A wine that I do like in the summer and is a big seller in restaurants and tavernas  in Greece is the white Agioritiko (referring to Mt. Athos and not to be confused with Agiorgitiko - St. George’s grape -  which is a very popular red varietal). The 2008 sample we tasted is a blend of Assyrtiko, Athiri and Roditis – all three exclusively Greek grapes. It is the quintessential summer wine, slightly aromatic with considerable acidity that pairs very well with charcoal grilled fish, seafood (think char-grilled octopus and calamari), and even a village salad of tomatoes, cucumber, shaved onion, and feta cheese drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and a touch of oregano and thyme.

Finally, I should mention two dessert wines, the Mavrodaphne Cellar Reserve NV, from the Patras area, a sweet sherry-like wine that is used in Greece mostly as a sacramental wine (communion wine), and the above mentioned Muscat from Lemnos Island. Both wines paired well with a light poached-fruit dessert. But, especially for the Lemnos Muscat, you don’t need to have it just with dessert. It also pairs beautifully with a pan-seared foie gras or a nice piece of ripe Stilton and is certainly less expensive than a Sauternes – even the less expensive ones.

Actually, contemporary wines paired with contemporary food – and the food at Thalassa is certainly updated Greek – enable a particular meal to stand out above the rest.

To your health.

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