Issue:
January
2012

Story by Barbara Penny Angelakis
Photography by Manos Angelakis

The Pan American
202 Mott Street
New York, NY 10012
212-925-9225
www.thePANAMnyc.com

The Pan American is a tiny gem of a restaurant recently opened in Nolita, the slowly gentrifying area in lower Manhattan, part of the neighborhood long referred to as Little Italy. This realized dream of Cuban co-owners Fernando Riquelme and Frank Rossi, of capturing the flavors of both Americas – North and South – in a stylized and ingenious manner, enriches the Manhattan restaurant scene with yet another savory culinary option. Their concept extends to the physical plant as well as the gastronomy, with the sophisticated yet eye-popping use of hot tropical colors in the décor, and mild to hot food from the Americas.

The Pan American’s lime green entrance is a welcome break to the still drab surrounding buildings on Mott Street, and entering into the small but beautifully designed room brings a smile and anticipation of good things to come. The green napkins on white high-gloss tables replicate the painted green walls and the one white accent wall, with its giant candy button sculpture that highlights the full length banquette along one side of the room. The banquette faces the small bar with its striking display of colored bottles which adds a dramatic accent to the lime green, yellow and turquoise chairs. The bright and funky décor is backed up with salsa and classic rock tunes that add color without drowning out conversation.

The kitchen is run by Saul Flores, a talented young Latin chef, who with Riquelme and Rossi, have developed a limited but exciting menu of mouth watering choices, all made fresh to order. Carnivores and herbivores can all find appealing selections for a reasonable price with appetizers in the $7 to $10 range and entrees in the $15 to $19 range, plus an extensive cocktail menu featuring spirits, spices, aromas and essences that include rums, tequilas, pisco, cachaça, burbon and rye, averaging a modest $12. The wine list was rather limited but interesting, with well-priced bottles from some of the better wine-producing areas of the Americas.

There were so many openers to choose from that we ended up with three. First was the signature Guacamole served in three strengths, medium, hot or fiery.  The Guacamole came to the table in a molcajete, a three legged bowl traditionally made from volcanic rock. More reminiscent of a salad then the traditional blended dip, it had large chunks of avocado, slivers of scallions, and bits of juicy tomato, with the spicy lime dressing nestling in the bottom of the bowl. Freshly fried tortilla chips were served as perfect scoops to capture the last tasty drop.  We could not pass up the Salmon ceviche and again, it was more complex that the usual version. The combination of julienned jicama, shaved red onion, cilantro, pickled chilies, and segments of orange fruit in a perfectly balanced citrus dressing, rendered the fresh salmon succulent and savory. Another signature dish at The Pan American, is their tiny, juicy, Lamb Meatballs. Similar to Greek style, mint and thyme serve as the condiment and the accompanying chipotle yogurt dip serves as a perfect foil to these non-greasy little gems.

The selection of entrees was inventive and mouth-watering with vegetarian options vying for attention even from steak-loving Manos. But we were interested in continuing to investigate the blending of styles the first courses began. It was wonderfully realized in the Arroz con Pollo Frito, combining the best of a traditional Cuban chicken dish with southern fried chicken, over bomba-style Spanish rice. The organic half chicken was de-boned, coated in a gluten-free buttermilk batter, and deep fried to perfection, leaving the meat juicy and tender and the skin crispy and crunchy. The rice was spiked with bits of olives, peppers, and chorizo, and colored with saffron. Also a departure from the traditional Puerto Rican seafood soup, Asopao, was reminiscent of a French Bouillabaisse, but was lighter than either with shrimp, clams, and catch of the day, in a flavorful tomato- and leak- based stew topped with a crispy rice cake. The rice cake is made from the catch at the bottom of the pot of rice and is considered a treat.

The staff was amiable and knowledgeable of the details on the dishes. 

After all the wonderful food and drink, I wish I could say don’t forget to save room for dessert; unfortunately the choices on the night we were there were pretentious or pedestrian, not up to the standard set by the other courses. But the restaurant is new and still experimenting so I look forward to being dazzled on our next visit to The Pan American.

 

 

 

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