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by Manos Angelakis
The wine industry’s New Big Thing is now “fun wines”.
What we used to call in the past “jug wines”, mass sellers mostly produced in California and targeted towards the “Pepsi Generation”, have been now renamed “fun, lifestyles-driven wines for the consumer that needs a good wine for social situations but is less concerned with the more traditional values”(sic) to quote a press release.
The success of “Two Buck Chuck” from Charles Shaw -- retailing in California for $1.99 -- and the Australian Yellow Tail product, easy-drinking unpretentious varietals retailing in the $6 to $9 range per 750 ml bottle, is the impetus that drives other Australian and California producers to repackage their cheap jugs giving them a fanciful name and flooding the market. We now have Little Penguins from Southcorp -- Australia’s largest wine maker, Crocodile Rock from McGuigan Simeon also from Australia, and Red Bicyclette from Ernest & Julio Gallo (made from French bulk wine) amongst others. Most of these labels sell Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Shirahz in both 750 ml and 1.5 liter bottles.
The French producers are taking note of these trends and are becoming much more aggressive with their marketing and pricing.
We explored the Loire Valley Wine Bureau”s Road Show and Tasting in New York City’s Metropolitan Pavilion. Titled “Great Wine, No Attitude” it showcased mostly whites. From the 27 participating producers, many were looking for importers and/or local representatives. New York was the second stop; Boston was first and Washington D.C. and Miami were to follow.
General impression: most were rather serious wines but well priced in the $10 to $18 range (the euro’s elevated rate has been driving prices to high levels making some of these producers increasingly uncomfortable). Most impressive were the Vouvray demi-sec: crisp, vibrant, not too sweet, fairly aromatic with good acidity. The Muscadet selections, from the western part of the Loire, were mostly from the Sèvre et Maine area that produces the tastier examples. Many were labeled sur lie, i.e. the wine was left in contact with the yeast lees for several months. That creates a finer structure and an extra bit of flavor. Practically every one was steel tank fermented. There was some Chinon product, red wines made entirely from Cabernet Franc. Soft and elegant, served cool to the touch, they were bursting with violet, cassis and spice. From the Eastern Loire, there were many Sancerre examples -- dry, elegant whites a bit smoky with a pronounced herbal flavor.
Not every sample was outstanding, but the majority were from very good to excellent. There were only one or two bottles that I would consider inferior and those were priced in the under $7.00 range.
With this kind of product coming to market, there is no reason to purchase “fun” wines. Quality is here, and you don’t have to sell your first-born to get it.
Details on particular producers in the next issue.
A votre santé!
©MayJune 2004. All rights reserved.
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