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By Barbara Penny Angelakis
 TAVERN ON THE GREEN
Central Park & West 67th Street
(212) 873-3200
www.tavernonthegreen.com
Carved out of the awesome green refuge known as Central Park, and partially hidden by park foliage, is a modified Romanesque building gone wild. The original one-story brick U shaped building surrounds a large gracious courtyard, and over the years has grown appendages of octagonal glass enclosed rooms to provide diners with outdoor views in all seasons. Since 1934, this has been the home of the renowned restaurant Tavern On The Green.
Dining at the Tavern is like going to a well organized party… festive, with high energy and professionalism… something for everyone. It’s the perfect venue for a special occasion or celebration for all ages. There are built-in over-the-top decorations; flowers in profusion; immense crystal chandeliers; damask table linens with waiter’s uniforms color coordinated; sophisticated music system; and an incomparable setting: Central Park. All you have to do is show up and let the festivities begin.
It is unfortunate that gastronomic trend-seeking New Yorkers have all but abandoned Tavern to the tourists and special occasion celebrants. The recent  inauguration of Chef Brian Young at the kitchen’s helm will, hopefully, turn this undeserved snub around, because on our recent visit we were captivated by the festive nature of the atmosphere as well as the quality of the food. A remarkable fact for a kitchen that reportedly turns out 700,000 meals annually and still manages to maintain a high level of culinary excellence.
On arrival for Sunday Brunch we were given the choice of being seated inside or out and we choose the courtyard. It was a lovely late spring afternoon, slightly overcast, so the sun did not cast bright shadows, and we could comfortably enjoy the fresh growing flowers in the garden setting and the hanging lanterns strung between trees.
Captain Luis, who waited on us, proved to be a valuable guide to the menu, even providing preparation and cooking techniques to aid us in our selection from the  ala carte Spring Brunch menu. There were so many tasty items to choose from that it was difficult to zero in. We finally settled on the Lobster Bisque with Tarragon Crème Fraîche and the Oysters on the Half Shell with Shallot Mignonette and Cilantro Lime Olive Oil dipping sauces. While we were waiting for our First Course, my companion ordered a traditional Bellini [Prosecco and Peach Nectar] and I selected a specialty drink called Flirtini, a concoction of Orange Vodka, Pineapple Juice, Cointreau, shaken and topped off with Prosecco… my advice, stick with the traditional. The wine menu offered a very drinkable selection of six well priced white, six red and six premium wines, mostly  Burgundies and Bordeaux from France as well as Italian Tuscany wines and a huge range of California wines. There was also a good variety of Champagnes and sparkling wines, mostly non vintage, as well as an interesting selection of single malt cask strength Scotch, and the aforementioned novelty drinks that change with the seasons.
The service was very professional but not rushed, giving us an opportunity to relax and enjoy our surroundings. When the appetizers arrived and Captain Luis saw me eyeing my companion’s Lobster Bisque, he rushed off to return with, as he graciously put it, a “tasting spoon”. The Bisque was creamy and smooth and richly tasting of lobster but just a tad too salty for my palate. The Oysters on the other hand, were briny and small as promised, with both dipping sauces excellent. I could easily have consumed another dozen or more silky and flavorful little morsels, so perfect were they… and perfectly shucked, with no sand or pieces of  shell to detract from my enjoyment of the mollusks.
For the main, or Second Course, we choose a traditional brunch item of Eggs Benedict and the highly recommended Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes. The Benedict was predictable except for the Chef’s special Hollandaise Sauce with his own secret ingredient, which was as Captain Luis indicated, with rolled eyes and lips pursed together… “remarkable”. The Crab Cakes were exquisite by any standard… meaty, without excess fillers, coated with flaky Panko instead of breadcrumbs, and presented crispy without being greasy. I am a Crab Cake lover and order them often as either appetizer or main course, so when I say that these were exceptional, all you Crab Cake lovers out there should take heed. Kudos to Chef Young.
The dessert menu carried unusual offerings and as in all of the Tavern’s menus, changes with the seasons. We decided on Fruit and Mixed Berries topped with a  scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream; perfect for a light and summery sweet to end a mid-day meal. Veering from my usual must-have chocolate fix, I selected the Slow-Baked Grua de Cocoa English Custard with Caramelized Demerara Sugar Crust and Ultra Lacy Palm Sugar Tuile. It sounded suspiciously like a Crème Brulé and looked remarkably similar but there the similarity ended. The caramelized crust was crunchy, but did not present a glaze that had to be pierced as is often the case with a brulé, and it covered a custard that was heavier, more like a pudding, creamy and dense. The perfectly formed tuile sitting atop the crust, was crunchy; fun to admire and to eat.
It was a treat to revisit Tavern after too long an absence and to taste a sampling of Chef Brian Young’s culinary vision for this landmark restaurant.
© July 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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