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By Manos Angelakis
Sushi Zen
108 West 44th Street
New York NY 10036
(212) 302.0707
www.sushizen-ny.com
Omakase
If you are confident of a chef’s expertise with raw fish, omakase i.e. putting yourself in the chef’s hands, is the very best way to enjoy your favorite sushi. After ascertaining likes and dislikes, and how a patron is feeling on that day, the chef prepares a customized meal individually designed for the guest according to appetite and budget. Omakase is different for every diner and includes a well thought out progression of cold and hot dishes, each course paving the way for the next. (For further reading please see Sushi in the Gastronomy Section).
A few nights ago, Barbara and I walked into Sushi Zen in midtown Manhattan, sat at the sushi bar, and said to Master Chef Toshio Suzuki, the Executive Chef/Owner of Sushi Zen, “Omakase”. Chef Suzuki studied the concept and history of the Edo style of sushi served in his restaurant, a style that was developed during the mid-Edo period in the mid 18th Century. He tries to achieve the harmony of umami, the fifth sense of taste, a savory flavor that is hard to define. Umami can be achieved through the right mix of ingredients. For example, in tuna sushi, the combination of fresh tuna, freshly grated wasabi, and the specific types of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and rice, all combine in a perfect balance to achieve umami. The omakase at dinner is served Kaiseki-style, i.e. as a progression of small dishes called sakizuki that change constantly to include seasonal ingredients. But, the main meal is the sushi.
Sushi Zen has an excellent selection of sakes, plum wine and plum liqueur, as well as Japanese beer. But we decided to stay with the traditional green tea, so as  not to adulterate the delicate taste of the fish.
Simplicity and reverence for nature are two intangibles that enhance the look and flavors of the raw ingredients. Chef Suzuki starts by creating complex sashimi dishes from the freshest possible elements and places the resulting little masterpieces in prized Japanese vessels; small baskets, hand-blown glass cups and bowls, and unique ceramic dishes. He forms raw slices of tuna and clam into flower-like arrangements garnished with shiso (horse mint) and other fresh herbs. Perfectly cooked black cod is placed over a bed of spicy cucumber and seaweed. Cubes of hamachi are topped with shiso flowers. Cucumber and carrot ribbons decorate the platter. The presentation is as significant as the flavor.
Next, a bowl of warm, cooked fresh vegetables (takiawase) was placed in front of us; each vegetable cooked individually to intensify the flavors, then all combined in a light broth.
 Individual pieces of sushi are then served one-by-one on raised ceramic platforms. Diners are encouraged to slowly enjoy a single piece of fish in order to capture the nuances and individual characteristics of the piece. Each fish has an individual character and umami that Chef Suzuki brings out by his careful pairing of fish with vinegars, mirin, or other sauces. The piece is an expression of the chef’s individuality, tailor made for the customer.
 Halfway through the individual sushi parade, came a hot pot of monkfish meat and liver - which Chef Suzuki calls the “foie gras of the sea” - with tofu, seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, and roe. In Japan, hot pots differ from region to region, but certain qualities always remain: a typical hot pot has a kombu- or soy-based broth, to which the chef adds a variety of proteins and vegetables that impart flavor and substance to the dish.
 We continued with the individual sushi pieces finishing with cooked eel, two ways. By that time, we were absolutely full; could not have another thing. But dessert showed up, a hard-chocolate-topped chocolate-custard round and a homemade, refreshing, bright crimson-colored cactus pear sorbet; we could not resist.
The sushi bar is not the only place diners can enjoy the chef’s omakase. Larger parties can dine in a small semiprivate room or in the main dining room. If you prefer to compose your own meal, ask for the vast menu of special seasonal appetizers, fresh sushi and sashimi by the piece (also seasonal selections), soups, salads, and traditional Japanese side dishes. Also, sushi or sashimi combination platters are all accompanied by freshly grated real wasabi and pickled ginger, and always arranged to appeal to the eye as well as the palate. But, to my thinking, it is always exciting to watch the creative process at the sushi bar, as each dish is meticulously created.
Sushi is a cultural as well as a gastronomic experience. The right chef - and Toshio Suzuki is definitely the right chef - can make it truly memorable.
© March 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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