Issue:
January
2012

By Manos Angelakis

 

First Look at El Bierzo, Spain:

El Bierzo is located on the Northwest part of the province of León, in the area that was in the past the independent kingdoms of León, Salamanca and Zamora, in a group of small valleys in the area’s highlands, and the lowlands between them.

Red wines are mostly produced in the Bierzo from the Mencia grape – an indigenous cultivar, or from blending Mencia with other Iberian red grapes or international varietals. White wines are made from an Iberian white, Godello. 

The region has 55 wineries, and 13 of them presented, for the first time in the US, their wines at a tasting in New York City. A few of thesewineries have already secured a relationship with US wine importers, therefore are available in the US market, while others were seeking representation.

In the tasting, there was a number of remarkable bottles from numerous producers. Wines made from old vines were part of this exceptional group.

There was one limited production wine that was outstanding, and in addition it was almost ready to drink now. From Bodegas Peique, 2007 Peique Viñedos Viejos, a full bodied 100% Mencia bottle, sourced from 65-year old vines. Aged for 12 months in French, Russian and American oak, it was a little heavy in alcohol (14.5%) but will be excellent when decanted for a few hours to give it time for the alcohol to dissipate. Very nice nose of violets, black forest fruit and cedar. On the palate, mouth filling with well rounded tannins. Nice legs. As previously mentioned it is almost ready to drink now but will hold very well for the next 5 to 7 years. From the same winery, 2005 Peique Seleccion Familiar, sourced from 90-year old vines. Aged for 18 months in mostly French oak, it has a very nice nose of sandalwood, dried cherries and ripe plums. The balance is impeccable. There is lots of glycerol that coats the palate making it a meat eater’s wine. A bit pricey, but the limited production makes it well worth it.

Another winery that had a noteworthy wine was Casar de Burbia. Their 2007 Tebaida is made from hand-selected grapes from three estates. 100% Mencia. Nice fruity nose, complex minerality on the palate, mouth filling but light on the oak; 13.5% alcohol. The same winery also exhibited the very limited production 2008 Tebaida No 5, from over 100-year old vines. Shy on the nose with 14% alcohol, and heavier oak than the Tebaida. This wine needs at least 5 more years in cellar before it becomes really food-friendly.

Bodegas Estefanía presented the 2005 Tilenus Crianza from 60- to 80- year old vines. 100% Mencia. Depending on the vintage it is aged for 10 to 12 months in French oak. This is a well structured wine with ripe fruit and spice notes on the nose. A bit light on the legs, yet it feels quite mouth filling. It is very well priced for the quality it represents ($30 MSRP). From the same winery the 2002 Tilenus Pieros is a limited production, 100% Mencia, from very old vines (over 90 years old). Complex body with pronounced minerality and sandalwood, cedar and ripe plums on the nose. Good aging potential, will still be enjoyable 10 years from today.

From Bodegas y Viñedos Castroventosa the 2007 Valtuille Cepas Centenarias, another beautiful 100% Mencia wine from very old vines. It has aged for 16 months in new French oak. A very good nose with ripe cherry, spices and incense; the palate is a bit heavier on the oak than I like, dense and ripe, with considerable length. It has good aging potential. The MSRP of $50 is a bit optimistic; expect to find it at a better price from wine shops specializing in product from the Iberian Peninsula.  

Finally, a fine wine from a winery that is looking for a US importer, Perez Carames. The wine was the 2009 Casar de Santa Ines Merlot. This is a beautiful blend of 85% Merlot, 9% Pinot Noir and 6% Tempranillo. It is fleshy with an excellent nose and lots of glycerol coating the glass. The alcohol is a bit up there – 14.5% - but with decanting and some judicial aeration it should subside. As I was talking about this wine with other wine-writers that were in the tasting, we all agreed that it is still in diapers and will improve with cellaring for the next 8 to 10 years.

 

Repeat Look at Portuguese Vinho Verde:

Vinho Verde refers not to the coloring of the wine, but to the fact that it is best when drunk very young – within a year or two from bottling. To my taste, the best Vinho Verde is a blend of two white grapes Alvarinho and Loureiro. 100% monovarietals of the aforementioned 2 grapes and Trajadura, another uniquely Portuguese cultivar, also make good Vinho Verde; a few producers also create an almost scarlet colored Vinho Verde from red grapes, but that is mostly drunk locally. Vinho Verde is a very lightly effervescent group of wines, fruity and refreshing, low in alcohol with balanced acidity; they are perfect for summer’s lighter cuisine.

José Maria da Fonseca produces only one version of an excellent Vinho Verde that I use as my summer house wine. The Twin Vines is aromatic, light, with well balanced acidity and a long dry finish. It is perfect with grilled lean fish and even with low temperature roasted pork, and is the perfect aperitif on a hot summer afternoon.

Another of my favorite Vinho Verde producers is Adega de Ponte de Lima. This is a cooperative that creates aromatic blends and monovarietals.  I loved the 2010 Adamado, a vintage-variable blend of Loureiro, Trajadura and Arinto that is light and aromatic with well balanced acidity and a light sweetness on the finish. Also, from the same producer, the monovarietal 2010 Loureiro. Both were tasted twice this year, at SISAB 2011 and at the Vinho Verde Tasting in New York.

Avelada is a large wine producer. They presented 6 versions of Vinho Verde, including the rosé 2010 Casal Garcia. I liked their 2010 Follies, a seasonal blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro. From their monovarietal lines I thought that the 2010 Alvarinho White was a no nonsense summer aperitif. Both wines were also tasted at SISAB and New York.

Quinta de Carapeços also presented 6 Vinho Verde (4 whites, 1 rosé, 1 red). The 2010 Alvarinho monovarietal was quite interesting, though it has a slightly elevated acidity that could work well with fatty meats and poultry. I liked better the 2010 Alvarinho and Trajadura blend – it was far more aromatic and better balanced than the monovarietal. They are currently looking for a US importer, so they are not in the US market yet. If you are in Portugal though look for these two wines which are also available in much of Europe. They also showed two interesting sparkling (espumante) wines, a white, and a rosé from Espadeiro grapes. Both classic champenoise-method produced reservas have fine and persistent bubbles and long, soft end. Finally, they also produce the only Late Harvest wine in the Vinho Verde region. The Espadeiro grapes are allowed to fully ripen and dry out on the vine. The resulting clusters are gently pressed to produce a very concentrated must. This sweet, golden hued wine is very aromatic, with notes of honey and jasmine on the nose and figs, dates and honey on the palate. A very long and smooth finish makes it a very delectable dessert wine.  

To your health

 

 

 

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