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Story and photography by Bo Zaunders
ONLY THE BEST: SANTORINI REVISITED
Santorini appeared magically, as it did on our first visit four years ago, its great caldera rising almost vertically hundreds of feet out of the Aegean Sea, crescent-shaped, with striations in a multitude of colors. It was just as I remembered it - towns and villages, clinging to the steep cliffs like dustings of snow.
It was here, 3,600 years ago, that the most devastating volcanic eruption ever experienced by humans took place. Exploding with a boom that could be heard all the way to Scandinavia, it created up to 200 meters high tidal waves, darkened the entire Mediterranean for several days, and covered large portions of the region with volcanic ash. In one final paroxysm, it sank almost the entire western part of the island, forming today’s caldera.
 When my wife and I first visited this extraordinary place four years ago, we had arrived in a small commuter plane from Athens; we now came on MV DISCOVERY, the classic cruise liner, most popularly known as the setting of the old TV series, The Loveboat.
A tender took us to the small harbor at Fira, Santorini’s capital. From there, to reach the town, which perches some 200 meters above sea level, the choices were walking, riding a donkey, or taking a funicular. Intent on revisiting some very special places, and aware that that would require a good deal of walking, we chose the funicular.
Next stop: Imerovigli, the village just north of Fira. We followed a circuitous route of winding steps and narrow lanes, among a jumble of white houses that seemed to cascade down the dark, steep cliffs. The path took us across roofs, serving as pretty little courtyards, and, every now and then, through open doorways with no walls attached. Configurations, artistically applied in gray and white paint, added a graphic touch to the stairways, and most houses sported bright blue trim. Flowers abounded, and here and there, rocks, urns, or little rowboats grey with age adorned the otherwise empty white roofs. The panorama to the west at this high altitude, along the lip of the caldera, was breathtaking. Out there lay Thirassia and the tiny island of Apronsi, and - following us every step of the way - MV  DISCOVERY, toy-like in the waters below.
We were headed for Astra, the luxurious eight-level apartment hotel, dug into the rocks, where we once stayed. Ours had proven to be not just a room, but a suite with a stunning view, which, in a startling visual juxtaposition, brought back thoughts of the island’s tumultuous past. Rising, seemingly from the edge of the shimmering turquoise water of our private swimming pool, was a steep, dark promontory, topped with a giant crag, so fractured that it looked as if it may tumble into the caldera at any moment. This was Skaros, now uninhabited, but in medieval times the capital of Santorini, a thriving little Catholic settlement. From their inaccessible perch, Venetian nobles kept pirates at a safe distance.
History apart, the suite was gorgeous - white, clean and uncluttered, with high vaulted ceilings. A few well-chosen pieces of furniture contributed to a sense of spaciousness, and only the pillows – in red, orange, and pink - added a splash of color. There was a sculptural feel to the place. A silvery plate engraved with a  school of fish hung on the living room wall, the work of a local artist named George Kypris.
We found Astra (after a good thirty-minute walk, sprinkled generously with tempting little caldera-side cafés), and met with General Manager George Karayiannis, who, surprisingly, remembered us. How familiar it all looked. The intricate, warren-like steps, the hidden-away reception, the terrace with a view of distant Oia, glimpsed through an opening in a stone wall, and, of course, Skaros. Asked what was new, George told us of Astra’s new “world class” spa, which included aromatherapy and massage, as well as jacuzzi and steam room packages. Next he pointed to a magnificently set terrace with chairs and tables. This, he explained, was Astra’s new restaurant. There, every night, dinner was served, with daily offerings of fresh-caught fish (red mullet, pink snapper, and so on). Other dishes included lamb, grilled over charcoal, and salads with chloro cheese and those delicious tiny tomatoes that only Santorini seems to be able to produce – grown virtually without water in rich volcanic soil. What better place to enjoy authentic Greek food than against the backdrop of a Santorini sunset, complete with Skaros?
Returning to Fira on a slightly different, but just as attractive path, we slowly wound our way to Selene, one of the island’s topnotch restaurants, famous for its imaginative use of local produce. From there I trace my first, most memorable encounter with Santorini cuisine: a fish-shaped little seafood pie with a caper for an eye. And how could I forget that very satisfying fava with baked pork that followed, or the dessert of white aubergine with chocolate mousse, baked in Vinsanto!
Practically every male on the island must be named George. Here it was George Hatzyianakas, Selene’s owner and chef extraordinaire.
It was in his kitchen, I recalled, that a fisherman had arrived with two 46-pound groupers slung over his shoulder. The impressive catch, relieved of its plastic wrapping and tossed on the kitchen table, was subsequently checked by George’s wife Evelyn, who put her nose just millimeters away from the jaws of the two monsters, sniffed delicately, and, with a beaming face, pronounced them both satisfactorily fresh.
At that time he and Evelyn had run the place together, catering and a cooking school being a substantial part of the operation. Sadly, Evelyn passed away a couple of years ago, leaving George to carry on with the business on his own.
Meeting him again, we were struck by his energy and high spirits.
Quickly, at his request, a waiter brought us two glasses of Asyrtiko Sigalas 2008. Enthusiastically, he expanded on the list of new dishes recently added to the menu. It was time for lunch, and this sounded promising.
I began with a sea urchin salad with grilled artichoke and crème of fava, and followed with Aegean codfish in aromatic green crusts, smoked eggplant puree and tomato vinaigrette. Meanwhile, for an appetizer, my wife Roxie picked giant beans, with lime and marinated fish. Contemplating pigeon with vinsanto, she then settled for baked sea bass. It was all very delicious, and not a little indulgent – topped off with a Cycladic cheese platter.
We were sitting on one of the several terraces, which, along with indoor seating, make up the restaurant. Like Astra, Selene offers superb views. Once again, we could see, far below, MV DISCOVERY, a reminder of a most memorable voyage. For almost two weeks, in utter comfort, we had traveled around the Black Sea, said hello to Stalin in his green dacha, spent time in Yalta and Nessebar, and explored Istanbul, Kudasasi and Ephesus. Next stop would be Mykonos. An adventure indeed.
But that’s another story.
Astra Apartments and Suites - http://www.astra.gr/
Selene Restaurant - http://www.selene.gr/
Voyages of Discovery - http://www.voyagesofdiscovery.com/
© July 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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