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By Buzzy Gordon
Whist
1819 Ocean Avenue,
Santa Monica CA 90401
(http://www.viceroysantamonica.com/dining/whistdinnermenu.html)
The showcase restaurant of Santa Monica's staid yet chic Viceroy Hotel quite properly bears a name appropriate to its surroundings: Whist, after the British card game. Similarly, the menu features classic cuisine -- but with a very definite California accent. Chef Warren Schwartz likes to boast that most of the ingredients are grown or raised within a 150-mile radius of the restaurant; the exception, seafood that comes from exclusive distributors in Maine, is flown in daily via Federal Express.
Schwartz's insistence on freshness pays off where it counts. Although Whist is a bit outside the Los Angeles culinary radar screen, there are clearly many who are happy to make the drive for the rewarding meal that awaits. As big as the sprawling restaurant is, spilling outdoors onto the patio and into poolside cabanas that afford a bit of extra privacy, it is invariably packed on weekend nights; reservations are highly recommended.
Southern California has great weather for al fresco dining all year round, and Whist has plenty of outdoor tables. But they are placed fairly close to each other, and it is very difficult to avoid overhearing neighbors' conversations -- or for them to avoid hearing yours!
Whist's signature martini menu offers some interesting choices, not only for before dinner but also to accompany dessert (viz., the delightfully drinkable chocolate-cherry concoction). The wine list features a generous selection available also by the glass; and while there is a sommelier, we found our waitress to be very knowledgeable and her recommendations spot on.
Choosing among the menu's many offerings is especially difficult, since in addition to the usual Continental and American choices, there is also page of the chef's international favorites, gleaned from his travels to Asia and the Middle East. Among the latter, the Moussaka is especially seductive; seasoned more in the Turkish than the Greek style, the dish initially tastes bland, but as the subtle spices kick in, the richness grows and pleases.
The appetizers we tasted paired seafood with vegetables: crab with artichoke, lobster with asparagus; as previously noted, and the freshness made an impressive difference. Among the main courses, the biggest, and definitely pleasant, surprise was the scallops, with the texture and near flavor of alabaster foie gras.
Fish, fowl, and beef are all amply represented. Notably, the delicious duck breast was superbly moist, and possible to cut with only a fork. The ravioli stuffed with veal elevated the pasta course to new heights.
The delectable quality of the desserts earns the pastry chef, Brooke Mosley, mention in her own right. Fortunately, there is a dessert sampler, so if you are having trouble choosing among the many mouthwatering choices, you can order a platter of four tastings -- and face the equally impossible task of trying to name your favorite. The other sampler option is a plate of three or five excellent cheeses, paired perfectly with an assortment of dried fruits and nuts. The bottom line: save room for what Whist calls the Finale.
Murano
9010 Melrose Ave.,
West Hollywood, CA 90069
310-246-9118
It is not easy for a restaurant to match its surroundings when it is located along Melrose Avenue's "gallery row" in West Hollywood's. But Murano, with its stunning white interior and contrasting dark Murano glass chandeliers, manages to pull off this aesthetic challenge. What's more, the food is in the same league as the elegant decor.
Brunch is an ideal time for eating at Murano, either before or after browsing the nearby art galleries. It starts-off with the choice of complimentary mimosa or Bloody Mary (refills, too). Brunch is served until 3:00 p.m., so the menu lists items clearly identified with breakfast, as well as dishes more commonly associated with lunch.
The first item to appear on the menu is the slightly pretentious sounding Vanilla Oatmeal Brûlé with Bananas. It arrived without a creamer of milk on the side, but it turned out it that was not needed after all; not only was the consistency perfect, it was probably the best oatmeal I have ever tasted.
Unfortunately, the missing creamer was one in a series of minor slips in service: the table lacked a pepper shaker; when the coffee came, the server failed to ask whether we wanted sugar or sweetener, even though there was none on the table; coffee refills were not offered; and had we not noticed a dessert menu on the next table and requested one, we never would have received one. None of this detracted from the quality of the food, but they were still minor irritants coming from an otherwise class establishment.
The spring omelet was indeed enhanced by its fresh garden ingredients, and the steak and eggs were prepared exactly as ordered. On the other hand, the perfectly cubed potatoes that looked so appetizing were remarkably devoid of taste. The accompanying toast comes very lightly buttered, so most diners might want to order extra.
Finally, it is a good thing we did ask for the dessert menu, or we would have missed the highlight of the meal: a brioche bread pudding, served like a tart. It is one of those desserts that you never want to end until you cry uncle.
© May 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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