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By Buzzy Gordon
You may think you know Mexican and Italian cuisine – but expect the unexpected in surprising San Diego. San Diego may not have the quantity of world class restaurants that its northern neighbor Los Angeles has, but it has startlingly good restaurants in its own right, certainly equal to what you can find in any American city two or three times its size.
Frida One Beverly Hills restaurant, Frida, has a sister establishment of the same name in the San Diego suburb of Chula Vista -- well worth the 20-minute drive from downtown to sample the best Mexican food you will find anywhere outside L.A. The latter Frida may not have the swanky address, but despite its shopping center location, it is the more attractive of the two, featuring a patio built around a beautiful olive tree that juts through the roof. Frida prides itself on presenting classical dishes of the region of Mexico City, with an accent on freshness. Accordingly, put aside any preconceived notions you may have about heavy sides of refried beans and rice. Of course, your Mexican favorites are here, and you will start off with the ubiquitous tortilla chips, served up fresh, warm and crispy with a choice of salsas. They are meant to be washed down with an expertly prepared Frida Margarita or tequila accompanied by sangrita. But the stars of the show are the main courses and desserts, so be warned: as good as they are, go easy on the chips, appetizers, soups and salads, in order to save room for the piéce de résistance. Far and away the single must-have entrée (unfortunately, also the rarest) is the seasonal chiles en nogada served at Frida’s only in September. This unique and complex concoction of stuffed poblano peppers in a creamy walnut sauce studded with fresh pomegranate seeds represents perhaps the single best Mexican dish I have eaten anywhere – this stateside recreation being on a par with the authentic version I fell in love with in colonial Mexico’s beautiful San Miguel de Allende. Although the autumnal standout is worth marking your calendar for, there are certainly more recognizable and widely available dishes that are recommended year-round: one is certainly the chicken in mole negro. The mole at Frida’s is arguably a bit milder and subtler than you might find at a restaurant specializing in dishes from Oaxaca or Puebla -- but without a doubt, no less flavorful in its own right. Portions at Frida’s are very generous, and this observation goes for the desserts as well, which are definitely meant to be shared (or leftovers taken home), Whether you are a party of two, three or four, my choices would be: one, the crepe in burnt caramel sauce with pecan pieces, four quarters of delectable gooiness; and/or two, the tres leches cake, a huge piece of white postre drenched in the hallmark three kinds of milk and flecked in coconut flakes. Once again, either or both desserts are designed to be accompanied by one of Frida’s signature coffee or hot chocolate drinks.
Solare Restaurant and Lounge From the food and wines of their native Italy to the Balinese-inspired interior design, the Solare Ristorante is a work of love created by owners Roberta Ruffini and Stefano Ceresoli. Unlike the menu at their sister eatery, Caffe’ Bella Italia, the dinner offerings here do not include such usual standbys as pizza and lasagne, lest diners be tempted to order these “ordinary” items, thus missing out on the gourmet stylings of executive chef Mark Pelliccia – who has a fondness for the less familiar specialties from the region of Liguria, where he trained. Before you even start to eat, however, you have several choices to make. One is where to sit: two seats at a counter looking into the kitchen are reserved for those ordering the tasting menu and wishing to watch the kitchen staff in action, while a small table set inside the unique wine room is perfect for an intimate experience (there is no extra charge for these popular places, but advance reservations would likely be necessary, and are recommended in any case, if you want to be sure of getting a table at your preferred hour). Another choice you face is between the elegant indoor dining room and al fresco dining on the outdoor patio. Next, also before the food is served, is an intriguing selection of original cocktails spiced with herbs rarely found in alcoholic drinks, like basil, thyme and cilantro. Those with a sweet tooth will prefer the Melissimo, while those with a penchant for the piquant might choose the Quilasalsa. Bread and olive oil will be served as you are perusing the menu, along with focaccia baked on the premises – in all likelihood, the lightest, fluffiest, tastiest version you have ever eaten. Do not munch it absent-mindedly; it is meant to be savored. The tasting menu, featuring five or six smaller portions of the chefs’ selections of the evening, are frequently available to any diner upon request, although this fact may not be publicized. Like the regular menu, the tasting menu will comprise both nightly offerings and seasonal dishes. The menu that appears online should reflect most of the choices available on any given day. Appetizers will often borrow from the lounge’s tapas menu. The buffalo mozzarella is homemade, soft and creamy; it is prepared here with a warm, crispy panko topping and served with jumbo shrimp, peeled avocado and mustard mango chutney, whose sweet and tangy flavor complements any and all three of the composite ingredients. The pasta course includes a few familiar names, albeit probably with a twist, but also some that you might never see outside of Italy. Ofelle, for example, are potato dumplings reminiscent of gnocchi, but larger and often containing a filling. At Solare, they are stuffed with mild sausage and drenched in a rich butter and sage sauce, meant to be sopped up to the last drop with bread left over after having polished off the focaccia. If you do not order the ofelle, it is worth trying another dish on the menu swimming in the delightful sage and butter sauce. Fish, fowl, meat and a vegetarian option ensure the variety of main courses. You can’t go wrong with the pancetta-wrapped pork chop in blueberry sauce; the pancetta keeps the perfectly cooked white meat moist, while refreshing fruit sauce bears no resemblance to the cloying concoction usually encountered in a pie. Desserts are original, light and sweet. The mille foglie looks exactly like its French counterpart, the napoleon; and this dolce – flaky phyllo dough sandwiching custard the consistency of thick yogurt – is equal to the best Gallic rendering of the classic pastry.
© April 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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