Issue:
January
2012

Story by Barbara Penny Angelakis
Photography by Manos Angelakis

What can one say about Rome that hasn’t been said hundreds of times before? It is an immense city chock full of some of the most important and well documented historical artifacts of western civilization, and the seat of one of the worlds major religions. Archeology is an ongoing enterprise and discoveries are habitually unearthed that lend new meaning and understanding to who we are and what came before. Rome has so much to offer that tourism has become by far its largest industry. Walking down any street you will hear languages from all over the world and see travelers with their noses buried in maps – just as mine was – trying to negotiate the maze of streets that grew helter-skelter out of ancient Rome, in order to locate a specific archaeological treasure dating from thousands, to mere hundreds, of years ago. Rome’s beauty surrounds you in its monumental buildings, its magnificent sculptures, and its living history. And whether you’ve been there dozens of times or for the first time, walking is the way to see Rome, and the best way to walk is with a professional guide knowledgeable in the ways of navigating the intricacies of sight-seeing in one of the most popular historical cities on earth.

We had the good fortune of “walking” with Walks Inside Rome and getting to meet the three principals; Marilena Barberi, her brother Salvatore (Sal) Barberi and Tosca Perotti. Fluent in English and Spanish and educated in art, architecture and archaeology, all three are licensed Rome guides with access to early morning tours of the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums. Early morning tours of the Sistine Chapel are strictly limited and Walks Inside Rome are one of only a few guide services authorized to reserve these coveted spots. Visiting the Sistine Chapel with no more than a handful of other tourists is the experience of a lifetime. Over an hour to explore the masterful art of Michelangelo before the chapel is open to the general public, offers a rare opportunity for art lover and tourist alike, and the insights shared by, in our case Marilena, were informative and astute. Michelangelo was not a painter when he was commissioned to decorate the private chapel of Pope Julius II in 1508 and his obvious disdain for the Pope is barely (sic) hidden in the Creation of the Sun and Moon panel with a figure actually mooning the viewer/Pope. So Michelangelo had a sense of humor as well as a genus for creating enduring works of art. Of course there is more to see in the Vatican then the Sistine Chapel but once the crowds enter it is difficult to navigate the museums and so we moved to St. Peter’s Basilica to see Michelangelo’s Pietà up-close. I was fortunate to see the Pietà when it was displayed at the Metropolitan Museum in New York City in 1964 and was thrilled to see that the 1972 attack on the statue did not leave noticeable damage from the distance we were allowed to view it through its protective bulletproof glass wall. Michelangelo created the Pietà when he was only 25 years old and little known outside his hometown of Florence. The sensitivity and elegant line of the statue whispers of masterpieces to come…

The next day Tosca walked us through the ancient center starting with the impressive Victor Emmanuel Monument explaining as we went that Rome is like lasagna, layers and layers of history built one on top of the other. A perfect example of this layering is Trajan’s Forum and Markets. From street level the ancient ruin rises straight up through thousands of years of history beginning in the second century B.C. Like Marilena, Tosca did not just quote facts and figures but gave personal details and references that made the complex history live for us. Their tours are private and semiprivate so that you are insured of personal attention to your needs and time for all your questions. And if you want to see how modern Romans live, take the newly offered Art, Food and Fun tour which is a walking tour of the “real” Rome and includes an open-air market, stopping for food samples in specialty stores, and quality wine tasting with knowledgeable oenophiles. www.walksinsiderome.com

Our first hotel in Rome was the Atlante Star, within walking distance of the Vatican. The Deluxe 4-star, old world gracious hotel Atlante Star is owned and operated by the Mencucci family. Fine fabrics and wall coverings add an elegant touch to public areas and rooms and the hotel sports a spectacular view from the Les Etoiles (the stars) roof garden restaurant. An added perk, is the complimentary transfer from the airport to the hotel on arrival in Rome.

We enjoyed dinner at Les Etoiles, which began with a complimentary glass of Spumante. It was a chilly day so for starters I ordered the French Onion soup, which was one of the best I ever had and Manos ordered Mushroom caps stuffed with snails and floating in a white cheese sauce. Both appetizers were superb, and from the dining choices of the other guests, appear to be specialties of the house. Our main courses were Carpacio with Rocket and Shaved Parmesan Cheese for Manos, perfectly prepared and attractively served, and for me, Filet of Sole with Fresh Vegetable Medley including Grilled Baby Eggplant, Cherry Tomato, Roasted Fennel and Boiled Potato. Unfortunately, the fish was somewhat overcooked and it looked and tasted more like Trout then Sole but the vegetables were truly outstanding. We selected a Falanghina vintage 2008 from the Campania DOC, Cantina Del Taburno, and it paired well with both entrees. But the highlight of the dinner was definitely the view of St. Peter’s Basilica lit up at night, and with just a sliver of moon hanging in the deep blue sky presenting a picture perfect setting. www.atlantehotels.com

For the balance of our stay in Rome we transferred to Hotel Mediterraneo on Via Cavour, another 4-star Deluxe hotel that should be upgraded to 5-stars in my humble opinion. For a review of this hotel see Hotels & Resorts. From the Hotel Mediterraneo we were able to easily reach any part of the city by taking public transportation - bus, tram, underground – or just walking. www.bettojahotels.it

One of the areas we wandered through was Trastaveri, a charming old quarter of winding streets that fronts the Tiber River. The area is reached by crossing the two bridges – Cestio and Fabricio - that connect both sides of the river with the Isola Tiberina, the small boat shaped island resting in the middle of the Tiber. The Isola Tiberina is a vital piece of real estate since Trastaveri was the site of the earliest settlement and crossing from one side of the river to the other ushered in the expansion that led to the Rome we know today. Trastaveri is enjoying a renaissance and is the place to find authentic Roman restaurants and trendy nightlife. Before crossing over to Trastaveri we stopped in what was the old Jewish Ghetto for dinner at Il Giardino Romano and experienced their specialty of roasted and stuffed whole artichokes which are then flattened like a pancake… definitely an acquired taste. Afterwards we headed across the two bridges to find the lovely church of Saint Cecilia. The church was erected over the actual house that belonged to Cecilia and is also the site of her martyrdom in 230 A.D. Since Cecilia was a Roman citizen and an aristocrat as well, the method of her execution was according to her status limited by law. Initially she was locked in the hot steam bath in her house for 3 days and when that didn’t work she was beheaded. Unfortunately, it took 3 swipes of the sword before she succumbed and she never actually lost her head. A statue of her rests at the bottom of the alter in the sanctuary, sculpted from sketches taken when her body was briefly disinterred in 1599. Miraculously visible on her perfectly preserved relic were the three cut marks on the back of her neck, plus on one hand she managed to extend one finger and on the other hand two fingers, digitally signifying her belief in the holy trinity for which she gave her life. You can visit the underground rooms of the original house as well as several beautiful frescos in the sanctuary that the nuns will gladly point out to you. There is also a lovely front garden with a reflecting pool that is peaceful and serene, a living testament to Cecilia, and her faith.

Our visit to Rome followed a trip to the Region of Lazio, the area south and along the “Mare Nostrum” or “Our Sea” as the Romans used to refer to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Region lies halfway between Rome and Naples and extends from the sea to the Apennine Mountain range. Our exploration concentrated on the Ulysses coast, the area the mythological Ulysses traveled that Homer so eloquently chronicled in his epic poem the Odyssey. A playground for both ancient and modern Italians, the region is filled with charming seaside hotels, beautiful sand beaches, stunning vistas and ancient ruins that can be explored without hoards of sightseers blocking your access. Food from the sea, fresh as can be, and a warm friendly reception from its inhabitants make this a go-to area when visiting either Rome or Naples. (For more see Lazio in the Destinations section and for restaurants, the Restaurant Notes section )

For information on Rome and the Region of Lazio visit www.italiantourism.com

 

 

 

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