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By Mara Bivone
The more I travel and sample the culinary expertise of chefs from around the world, the more I realize how little appreciated are some of the chefs in my own town, Italy’s Venice.
In a previous issue, I wrote about Vini da Gigio, the family–run restaurant in Cannaregio. Now, I believe this is the best restaurant in the city, maybe the entire country. Perhaps not the fanciest or most expensive in town; but the food is outstanding, simple, and honestly prepared from the freshest ingredients. With, perhaps one or two exceptions, the wine list is also top of the line and at almost logical prices.
Another restaurant whose reputation has risen in my mind is Osteria da Fiore (Calle del Scaleter 2202A, 041-721-308). Da Fiore, as it is affectionately known to the locals, has been around for quite a while and had its beginning as a neighborhood wine bar. It has now had a Michelin star for several years. Mara Martin, runs one of the best seafood kitchens in town. Wonderful, traditional cuisine and gracious service have been the hallmarks of this stalwart, tucked away on a little calle off Campo San Polo. The Martin family serves the same dishes grandma made years ago, and they make the flavors stand out in a unique, subtle, and always satisfying way. In season, reserve at least a week in advance.
A recent visit to one of Manos’s favorite Venetian restaurants, Fiaschetteria Toscana (San Giovanni Grisostomo 5719, 041-528-5521) left me with questions. I had eaten there many times in the past, and the food and service was always wonderful. This time, the food was still divine, but the service left a lot to be desired. I thought this was only my experience, but talking with friends, I found the kitchen reviews to be excellent but the service reviews remarkably spotty. Terrific crudi di pesce, schie con polenta and sogliolette in saor, and great Milanese veal. But the staff’s attitude definitively need adjustment when it comes to either tourists or locals.
A tiny, atmospheric, romantic room and a Tuscan kitchen that is second to none. Da Ivo (Ramo dei Fuseri 1809, 041-528-5004) was the “love child” of chef-owner Ivo Natali, from Tuscany. Located two minutes from Piazza San Marco, the reputation of the restaurant has been built on its famous bistecche fiorentine, two-pound Chianina beef steaks grilled over olive wood charcoal. Giovanni Fracassi, who has been a partner and director of “Da Ivo” for many years, took over its management in late 2005 and has adhered to the successful formula of the original owner. The cook, Giorgina Mazzero, has prepared Tuscan and Veneto specialties and other delicious Italian meat and fish dishes, practically since the beginning. As it became successful with the jet set, Da Ivo has seen the prices move higher and higher and the required reservation time longer and longer. But it is worth a visit just to taste the food Elton John, Sting, Harrison Ford, Phil Collins, Christina Aguilera, Nicolas Cage, Hugh Grant, and Paul Newman (to name but a few celebrities) find so appealing.
© December 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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