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By Debra C. Argen
Tuscany
I cannot think of Tuscany without thinking of food, the pasta, the seafood, the meats, olive oils, and cheeses, as well as the wine (Chianti and Vin Santo). During a trip to the Tuscany region with Edward F. Nesta in October 2004, we found that these restaurants stood out as places that we not only enjoyed but also are looking forward to returning to on our next trip to Tuscany.
Osteria Le Logge located on Via del Porrione in Siena is a definite must visit. Edward and I had a very memorable lunch at the restaurant with Jim and Gloria Redmond. The restaurant is 27 years old, and was a former bakery and food shop. The cozy downstairs dining room still bears the remains of the cabinets from the shop, and if you look closely, you will see rice, beans and other items behind the glass doors. There is another dining room upstairs. In the summer, there are also tables outside. White tablecloths, excellent service, and gourmet cuisine make this de rigueur on your next trip. They are closed on Sundays and reservations are highly recommended. We enjoyed Funghi porcini con frutta e verdure autunnale, Paccheri con carciofi e Parmigiano, Tagliatelle con verdures, Insalata di spinaci, rape rosse, olive e mozzarella, Toscanelli all olio, Paccheri con calamari, salsiccia e finoccietto, Petto di Anatra con constagne, noci, uva e spinaci, Crema di cipolla con caciotta e purea di pere, followed by a large cheese selection. For dessert, we tried one of everything! Incredible? Yes, but some things are worth going off a diet for!
Nimphaea located at Piazza Masini 1, in Certaldo is worth making a stop for their luscious pastries. Their sparkling glass cases tantalize with a wide-assortment of freshly baked pastries made on the premises, as well as freshly made sandwiches. Their sfogliatelle was the best I had ever tasted, with perfect crispy ribbons of pastry outside with a smooth sweet filling inside. Portions are large, but they also have miniatures, perfect for the figure-conscious or to enjoy sampling one of this and one of that, (which I did!) There are small round tables and chairs to sit and relax, as well as a counter bar for a quick espresso or a sandwich. They also sell chocolates and gelato, making it the perfect sweet spot to satisfy your sweet tooth.
By N. A. Ross.
Florence
Florence, or Firenze to follow the local appellation, has some of the best Italian/Tuscan restaurants in Italy. Tucked away in old palazzos, rustic villas or storefronts and basements near the historic city center, most of these establishments exude a very old world feeling even though the offerings are, at times, as modern as tomorrow. The wine lists are unrivaled, the ingredients farm- and stream- fresh, the preparation impeccable, the presentation imaginative.
Deemed by my friends “the best of the best” is Enoteca Pinchiorri, located at 87 Via Ghibellina (www.enotecapinchiorri.com). This legendary restaurant rules the Florentine roost with a world-class kitchen, an outstanding wine list, attentive service and a sensual setting. I had two meals there and I can tell you, it doesn’t get any better.
The Antinori family has been creating since time immemorial top-of-the-line wines. They can be found in every major city around the world, but one can combine them with excellent Tuscan cuisine at Cantinetta Antinori, 3 Piazza Antinori (www.antinori.it). The food is on the light side, perfect for lunch and some conversation in a serene 15th-century Renaissance palazzo, near the Duomo. Take advantage while midweek shopping as it is closed on the weekends.
If you crave seafood and like a refined ambiance and an ample wine cellar, you can always reserve at I Quatro Amici, 29 Via Oricellari, at the historic city center. According to an associate “the fish is so fresh it jumps in the frying pan”!
© January 2005. All rights reserved
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