Story and photography by Manos Angelakis
In Florida’s Historic Coast
One would think that St. Augustine is too quaint and provincial a resort town to provide the kind of exciting experiences that larger cities can provide; and one would be totally wrong (see St. Augustine story in Destinations).
I visited early in October, and I will attest that if you are open to interesting 
experiences, this is a very good town to visit. Moorish architecture from the early 20th century dominates the important buildings in town, which is the oldest in the US established by Spaniards in 1565. The Lightner Museum – ex the Alcazar Hotel - has fascinating collections. You can try your culinary stamina by downing chocolate-covered Datil peppers – miniature extremely hot peppers with a Scoville Rating of 250,000 to 400,000 heat units - and have your picture added to the expanding wall of hot-pepper survivors. You can have a drink at a haunted tavern or two, smoke a cigar in one of the old buildings in town, or drink from Ponce de Léon’s Fountain of Youth at the eponymous seashore 
private park. You could tour the Whetstone’s Chocolate Factory and be photographed next to the effigy of “Lucie” in the famous “chocolate conveyor belt” scene. If you are a golf enthusiast, you could try your skill at some of the most celebrated golf courses; be aware that some of the top PGA pros also tee there. The beaches are great for a swim. Some of the older streets are paved with bricks that used to be ballast for schooners crossing the ocean – baked at the R. J. Reynolds factory before that family ever thought of handling tobacco.
But it was St. Augustine’s culinary scene that was of most interest to me. The local cuisine is as varied as Southern cookery (think gator tail, fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits), French (think “la cuisine de meres”), Mediterranean (think baked eggplant tower with goat cheese, capper-fruit and mixed field greens), South American (think parillada) and everything in between.
The first day, I had lunch at Avilés Restaurant – the dinning room of the Hilton Historic Bayfront Hotel. If you think of Hilton hotel restaurants as dispensaries of institutional rubber-chicken, this is a very notable exception. First, the hotel itself is the smallest Hilton property in the Americas, a Spanish-styled two story 
building with a spouting fountain at the center of the reception area. The restaurant Avilés, under Chef Edward Hill, presents a modern, Spanish-inspired culinary repertory. The Spinach Salad Asturias I had was a creation of Serrano ham, Bleu cheese, Grape tomatoes, Strawberries, Toasted almonds and Honey-lemon dressing and was exceptional; but the piece de resistance was the Eggplant Tower, a culinary masterpiece that had everyone in the group asking for more (see recipe in Cook’s Corner). The Bread Pudding dessert was not shabby either and the espresso was properly drawn. The wine list was rather limited but had an interesting group of Spanish and Chilean wines.
Dinner was at Bistro de Leon, the culinary domain of Chef Jean-Stephane 
Poinard and his wife Valerie, who manages the front of the house. Monsieur Poinard is an esteemed member of Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises, a fraternity of 100 chef-members. The menu is constantly changing according to the season. The kitchen at Bistro de Leon creates the kind of food that only a bastion of French bistro cooking can serve. I very fondly remember bistro dinners of Pot-au-feu during my salad days in Paris, and a Cassoulet always has a special place in my heart, as has a glass of Juliénas. The dinner at Bistro de Leon had the “ode to a French bistro” feeling that only a Lyonnais cook can engender.
A much more down to earth lunch was at Aunt Kate’s on the Water, in an oak 
grove on the shore of the Tolomoto River. This is, I believe, Southern family dining par excellence: Fried Green Tomatoes, She Crab Soup, Fried Gator Tail, Shrimp and Grits, Johnny Cakes and the best Key Lime Pie north of Key West, were some of the plates we tried, and we drank iced tea, iced lemonade and a refreshing non-alcoholic beverage made of Piña Colada mix, Cream with some Orange Marmalade and a hint of Cinnamon. The wine list is limited with mostly California and Oregon bottles, a couple Australians and one Argentinean Malbec.
Dinner that evening was at the Augustine Grill at Sawgrass Marriott Golf Resort
and Spa, in Ponte Vedra. It was a 6 course dinner (three courses from Augustine Grill and three from 619 Ocean View, a private beach and restaurant) presented by the Chefs, David Scalisce and Nick Ochletre of Augustine Grill and 619 Ocean View respectively. This was a sophisticated “farm-to-table” meal, a fusion of Mediterranean cuisine with local fresh seafood & produce, with such starters as Romaine with brioche crouton, parmesan tuile and white anchovy, and Parma Scallops, with garlic, shallots, sun dried tomatoes & Prosciutto di Parma. Memorable was the main course of Roasted Grouper with olives, tomatoes and capers. I refused the second main because I was full from the previous offerings and I wanted to taste the desserts, which were exceptional. The wine list is varied with some unexpected bottles from the best winemaking regions of 
the world.
The Sawgrass Marriott Golf Resort and Spa is the host hotel for the Players, and its eight world-class golf courses around it are some of the most renowned. Designed by Pete Dye, the Players Stadium Course is ranked among the top 80 golf courses in the world.
The Ponte Vedra Spa at the Sawgrass Marriott is a 25,000-square-foot luxury sanctuary, an Eastern-inspired setting in a relaxed environment featuring 
energizing drinks and spa cuisine.
Breakfast at the Sawgrass the next morning was equal to any 5 star property’s breakfast with buffet assortments of fruits, cold cuts and cheeses, cereals, breads and pastries and a to-order egg station where a cook prepared fried eggs, omelets or scrambled eggs whichever way you wanted.
The final lunch was at the Renaissance Resort, hosted by Executive Chef Brett Smith whose team creates culinary magic whether making breads, soups, main courses or desserts, using the best local ingredients. The Renaissance World Golf Village Resort and Convention Center is another Marriott property, home to the World Golf Hall Of Fame. The property offers two unique championship golf courses, including King & Bear, the only course ever co-designed by Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus and Slammer & Squire; if you are a golf aficionado you could walk from your room to the clubhouse to start your game.
Link to St. Augustine’s web-site
Avilés Restaurant at the Historic Bayfront Hilton Hotel
Sawgrass Marriott Golf Resort and Spa
The Renaissance World Golf Village Resort and Convention Center
© November 2011 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
Issue:
January
2012