Issue:
December
2011

By Manos Angelakis

Manhattan Restaurants

The recession non-withstanding, there are more and more restaurants in Manhattan. Some restaurants closed; new ones opened. In general, there is now a dearth of great establishments, but there is a plethora of restaurants that strive to remove the designation “neighborhood restaurant” and upgrade to the level of “restaurant of note”.

In our peregrinations among the eateries in Manhattan, these caught our palate:

Pranna, 79 Madison Avenue (212) 696-5700. An upscale, extremely large space decorated with original Asian-themed photography and art. Satay lounge area on the ground floor, where the main dinning room is also located; a North Balcony for VIP events or cocktails and passed around hors d’oeuvres; a Wine Cellar with old world charm. The day we were there, the noise level was extremely high. Very strong events department, that allows private events without interfering with the regular clientele. Good kitchen for Asian inspired food, really nice creations for the pass-around hors d’oeuvres.

Sahara’s Turkish Cuisine, 513 2nd Avenue at 28^th Street, (212) 532-7589. A neighborhood restaurant. Turkish cooking in a place decorated in traditional Turkish style. The food is cooked for a slightly Americanized palate, but it is very nicely spiced and flavorful. Their humus is very smooth. Their kebabs are pretty good though the chicken kebab came out a bit dry and had to be assisted by cacik, the yoghurt/cucumber/garlic sauce traditionally served both as an appetizer dip and as a sauce to go with the meats. If you are a meat eater, I recommend the meat platter that is chockfull of chicken, lamb and spiced ground meat (Adana kebab) skewers or doner kebab (gyro). I like the shepherd’s salad and it is served with fresh pide - Turkish bread, like pita but leavened, covered with toasted sesame and black sesame. Excellent desserts and the Turkish coffee was made by someone that knows the intricacies of Near Eastern coffee making. The prices are a bit lower than other Turkish restaurants in the area.

It is not really a restaurant, but since Il Cantuccio (91 Christopher Street & Bleeker, 212-647-8787) serves sandwiches, I will include it in these notes. Il Cantuccio is a new Italian bakery that just opened in New York City’s West Village. Cantucci or cantuccini (smaller size) is Tuscan semi-soft biscotti, usually served for breakfast, as a snack, or dessert, dunked in milk, coffee, or a glass of sweet Muscat or Malvasia. The classic recipe uses blanched almonds, but the cantucci served here can also be had stuffed with chunks of dark chocolate or Turkish dry apricots, prunes, or dried figs. The biscotti are hand cut while still hot and placed in elegant wicker baskets. In addition to the cantucci, the bakery also creates a very tasty focaccia that is sprinkled while warm with olive oil. Focaccia sandwiches are stuffed with prosciutto crudo di Parma, mortadella di Bologna, or prosciutto cotto Rovagnati, or with any of the meats plus fontina or mozzarella and/or organic tomatoes. In addition to the focaccia, you could also purchase a Bozzetta Tuscan bread, a Bozza (a larger loaf) or a Filone. The pricing is not inexpensive, but the quality is such that an elegant bag of cantuccini would be a very welcome gift.

And now for the brickbats!

I like Junior’s on Manhattan’s West Side (West 45th St. between Broadway and 8th Ave.). I like their corned beef sandwiches, and of course their wonderful cheesecakes. I was on the East Side though, near Grand Central Terminal, and I was told there was a Junior’s at the downstairs food court. So, with great anticipation, I walked down the ramp to the food court, sat down at the Junior’s tables and ordered a corned beef sandwich with a side of fries, and coffee. What a mistaka I maka! When my order arrived it was so disappointing. The edges of the meat were dried up, the rye bread stale, and the french fries had been pre-fried then reheated. The table next to us had ordered cheesecake. The portions were visually much smaller, by about 1/4, than what the West Side restaurant offers. And to add insult to injury the “flatware” was plastic and cups were paper. And to top it all, even though the table next to us had no problem paying with a Visa card, when I gave them my American Express, I was told “the machine was not working” and I had to pay in cash. I understand that Amex charges more to the restaurant for their service, but I believe it is against credit card rules to pretend that the machine was out of order, so that they do not have to accept Amex. For all these reasons I give Juniors at the Grand Central food court a TIN AWARD. Caveat Emptor, let the buyer beware.

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