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by Manos Angelakis & Barbara Penny Angelakis
Notes Manhattan, 2007
The exorbitant cost of opening a new restaurant in Manhattan not withstanding, more and more chefs are opening new establishments, many in newly gentrified areas that only a few years ago were just a step above slums. Few of these establishments last more than five years. On the other hand, there are restaurants that have withstood the test of time and have developed a loyal clientele. Many of their chefs have become household names, and the restaurants are a “point of reference” when a particular type of cuisine is invoked.
The Livanos family, along with partner/chef Jim Botsakos celebrated the 10th anniversary of Molyvos, the iconic Greek restaurant in mid-town (871 Seventh Ave., New York, NY, 212.582-7500). Molyvos, was one of the first Greek-owned restaurants in Manhattan that took traditional Greek cookery and elevated it to haute cuisine. Classically trained, chef Botsacos has taken centuries-old rural Greek recipes and translated them to modern, flavorful dishes. The combination of warm Greek hospitality and classic French culinary art that Molyvos represents is unbeatable.
Some of the particularly interesting specialties offered during the celebration were:
From Macedonia, “Lahanodolmathes”, meat-stuffed cabbage leaves with dill egg-lemon sauce. If you ever see it in the Molyvos’ menu, order this dish. It is spectacular.
From the island of Lesvos. “Ctapodi Stifado”, tender pieces of octopus and wild onion bulbs cooked in a savory tomato sauce. “Kolokithokeftedes”, shredded baby zucchini in an anise-flavored batter; we covered them with “tzatziki”, the yogurt, garlic and shredded cucumber spread that is a fixture in most Greek menus.
From the island of Crete: Cretan Seafood Salad. Toasted barley rusk, topped with a mixture of pickled octopus slices, shrimp slices, and calamari rings drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. “Paximadi” toasted barley rusk soaked in olive oil and water with a pinch of salt is a staple for the Cretan shepherds, who will have it with a handful of green olives and a ripe tomato as either breakfast or lunch.
A recent visit to the exquisite Le Bernardin (155 West 51st Street, New York, NY, 212.554-1108) for lunch, confirmed for me that this legendary restaurant still warrants its Michelin 3-star rating. The tasteful décor, attentive but never in-your-face waitstaff, plus the crème de la crème of elegant cuisine beautifully presented, all contributed to a glorious dining experience. The lunch was sponsored by the Martinique Promotion Bureau and the Comitè Martiniquais du Tourisme and appropriately so as Executive Sous Chef Eric Gestel is a native of Martinique. The luncheon integrated flavorings and spices from the island paradise into Le Bernardin’s classic French Seafood menu. Outstanding was the Crab Causa appetizer with its layers of crab meat, avocado and potatoes spiced with yellow Aji pepper sauce… a perfect balance of textures and tastes, with one level playing off the next level and altogether blending in an explosion of flavor. The entree Beef Tenderloin with Tamarind red wine sauce was butter-tender and cooked to perfection as was the baked Snapper. Normally an unremarkable fish, in Chef Gestel’s hands it became a rare delicacy; never have I experienced Snapper as well prepared. Not as successful was the spicy-sour Sancocho broth presented with the fish, which overwhelmed the delicate white fleshed Snapper, or the side dish of Christophine Gratin served with both meat and fish which was tasteless except for the cheese topping. The desert of Passion fruit cream enrobed in white chocolate and ginger caramel accompanied by Coconut sorbet however, made a flawless presentation and delicious conclusion to the meal. This masterful creation had the consistency of French style cheesecake, velvety rich and creamy smooth, with the Passion fruit taste enhanced by the spicy ginger caramel and soothing Coconut sorbet… truly a work of art.
In contract to my experience at Le Bernardin, a recent visit to one of my all time favorite “legendary” restaurants, 21 Club (21 West 52nd Street, New York, NY, 212.582-7200), was disappointing. The ambience and gracious atmosphere is still very impressive but the food served at this lunch was pedestrian at best. The appetizer salad of field greens, dressed with cranberries, candied walnuts and goat cheese was fresh and delicious if somewhat uninspired, but the chicken entree lacked character and the crusted roasted salmon was just shy of overcooked. Neither course was worthy of the usual high standards I have enjoyed at this restaurant in the past. The service was rushed and catch-as-catch-can and while not rude, I never did receive the after lunch coffee I ordered; and my requests to remove my before lunch cocktail were ignored and it sat on the table amidst the wine glasses all through the meal until I placed it in the waiter’s hand for removal. The creamy cheese tart desert was the one dish that lived up to expectations.
Another favorite timeless restaurant is Petrossian (182 West 58th Street at 7th Avenue, 212.765-6641). It exudes old world luxury and excess and just approaching its beautiful façade on the corner of 7th Avenue at 58th Street begins the fantasy for me. Entering the art deco restaurant itself is a step back in time but don’t be fooled, Petrossian is 21st century forward thinking. Keeping up with the times without disrupting the ambience is a skill that the management team has mastered well. Known for its introduction of Caspian Sea caviar in the 1920’s, first in Paris and later in the US, Petrossian has responded to the endangered species restrictions on wild caught Sturgeon caviar by introducing high-quality farmed caviar and educating the public – just as they had when they first introduced caviar almost 100 years ago – to the grades and nuances of the “new” caviar. A boutique and gift shop just next to the restaurant sells packaged goods of caviar, smoked fish and other delicacies, as well as patisserie offerings from pastry Chef Catherine Lahitette. Their small old world coffee bar is reminiscent of similar cafés I have visited in Paris, Madrid and Athens. Mail order shopping is now part and parcel of Petrossian’s modern marketing techniques as is their internet presence at www.petrossian.com. Just recently opened in the restaurant itself is The Serruga Suite, a stunning room for private dinning, small parties, caviar tastings or the like. Also new is Chef de Cuisine German Calle.
© November 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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