By  Buzzy Gordon

Notes Jerusalem

The Holy City will never be a jewel in the crown of international culinary destinations, nor is it likely to replace Tel Aviv as the fine dining mecca of Israel, but the Jerusalem restaurant scene has come a long way in recent years. It is certainly the world capital of kosher haute cuisine: the city is home to more than one restaurant where the restrictions of ancient religious dietary laws are no impediment to the enjoyment of a world-class gourmet meal (with the exception that no milk will be offered with your after-dinner coffee if the restaurant serves meat). And while Jerusalem does not have much of a range of ethnic eateries, it nonetheless has exceptional Italian, French and Mediterranean restaurants, as well as authentic Arabic fare. Moreover, Jerusalem’s talented young chefs are constantly redefining excellence when it comes to native Israeli cuisine.

Top choices for experiences that offer more than simply terrific food are (in alphabetical order):

Chakra. Chef Ilan Garoussi shops the Mahaneh Yehudah outdoor market personally every morning, purchasing only the freshest ingredients for a menu that is updated daily to reflect the best that is available locally. This Mediterranean restaurant overlooking Independence Park features the most extensive tasting menu in town: a seemingly endless array of courses running the sampling gamut of Chakra’s appetizers, soups, entrees and desserts. As one of the city’s premier non-kosher restaurants, it is a good choice to satisfy a hankering for seafood.    

Darna. Jerusalem’s best Moroccan restaurant is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate: both the indoor dining area and outdoor garden are designed and furnished with the loveliest examples of North African splendor. The authenticity extends to the serving dishes and ceramic ware (which may be purchased to take home) and even the waitresses’ dresses. From the bastillas to the tagines, and the couscous to the honey-drenched desserts, this is a must for people unfamiliar with this glorious cuisine. It’s kosher, to boot. 

Eucalyptus. Chef Moshe Basson is known as the father of Biblical cuisine: a pioneer in the research of the herbs and spices of ancient Israel, he has revived and innovated, leading to the creation of exquisite dishes made from the ingredients of the Holy Land mentioned in the Old and New Testaments. Kosher feasts, often accompanied by explanations and demonstrations, are served in new premises in the Hutzot Hayotzer artists’ complex, just opposite the Jaffa Gate.

La Rotisserie. Elegantly housed in one of Jerusalem’s most beautiful landmarks, the Pontifical Institute of Notre Dame, this continental restaurant has recently become one of the hottest cosmopolitan draws in the city – thanks to the new life breathed into it by Chef Elias Rodrigo of Spain. The specialty of the house: tapas that are probably the best in all of Israel (unfortunately, available only on Saturdays; and if it is open on Saturday, it cannot be kosher).  

Shmil at the Lab. Renowned food historian and caterer Shmil Holland, whose restaurant is one of the centerpieces of the renewal of Jerusalem’s Ottoman-era railway yard, draws his inspiration from the traditions of Jewish cuisines as they developed in the Diasporas of Central and Eastern Europe, as well as the Mediterranean Basin. His fresh takes on familiar favorites – kosher, of course -- are bound to please. 

Honorable Mention

Angelica, Gabriel and La Guta are three restaurants whose adherence to the laws of kashrut is not noticeable in the quality of the food.

Barood is one of a dwindling number of West Jerusalem restaurants open on the Jewish Sabbath (Friday night and Saturday) – yet it still manages to serve authentic Sephardic delicacies.

An equally good choice for Friday night is the Old City’s Armenian Tavern: a veritable museum of stunning artifacts representing centuries of Jerusalem history. There are also some tasty surprises in store if you have not yet tried this esoteric cuisine.

© January 2010 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.