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Story and photography by Barbara Penny Angelakis
Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh offers a range of dining establishments from old world pub to modern slow food minimalism and everything in between, with a heavy emphasis on food from the sea. On my recent trip to Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival, I had a chance to experience dining opportunities from mediocre to marvelous; here are some of my favorites.
Calistoga Central is promoted as a California Wine Lounge. Located at 70 Rose St. Lane North, an alleyway really, barely wide enough for a taxicab to navigate, Calistoga’s front door opens into a tiny, impossibly noisy, narrow room. Its miniscule kitchen though somehow manages to turn out simply divine food. Their gastronomic nod to typical California cuisine produced an avocado and grapefruit salad appetizer toped with toasted pine nuts and raspberry vinaigrette that was stunning in its simplicity and won raves around the table. Also good was the unusual strawberry and red pepper gazpacho. The Sea Bream entrée was property cooked – a rarity in my experience, even amongst French trained chefs – and artfully presented, as were all the other entrée dishes. The dessert menu was outstanding although due to a tight schedule we lacked the time to take advantage of the chef’s imaginative sweet treats. www.calistoga.co.uk
Completely opposite in style, decor and menu is The Café Royal, 17 West Register Street. Listed as a historic site, walking into this beautifully preserved Victorian and Baroque restaurant and  bar is like taking a step backward into the late 19th century. Elegant stained glass murals in the restaurant, and six stunning Doulton ceramic tile paintings by John Eyre, dominate the plush décor of the bar which also serves food. Known for its seafood, I ordered the freshly chucked oysters and the oysters of the day, parmesan and bread crumbs baked. The natural oysters were fresh and delicious but unforgivingly peppered with shell shavings from improper chucking, and the baked oysters were cold and tasteless when served… a grave disappointment. However my main dish of roasted mushroom and artichoke tart was spectacular with a proper pastry crust and just right sauce… yummy. A visit to The Café Royal is a must just for the arty decor but don’t miss the tart.
Just on Victoria - a half-moon street a short distance from Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile - is The Grainstore Restaurant, one flight up at 30 Victoria Street. Comfortable seating and a warm greeting from the knowledgeable staff set the tone for a splendid dinner. Two appetizers stood out, ceviche of west coast scallops seated on herb salad and the seared foie gras served with Stornoway (touted to be the best) black pudding, caramelized apple and toasted brioche. For my main course I selected saddle of Perthshire venison with plum tart tatin and braised chicory & brambles, which was properly prepared and presented beautifully, as were the wood pigeon roasted on the bone and the seared halibut, each served with appropriate accompaniments. A selection of desserts that change daily were all excellent. This was definitely one of the best meals I had during my stay in Edinburgh but if you go, make sure you give yourself plenty of time to enjoy it as all dishes are cooked to order www.grainstore-restaurant.co.uk
For a fun pub lunch, do try The Bailie at 2-4 St. Stephens Street. Once you cross Princess Street just keep walking down the hill on Frederick Street past the Queen Street Gardens where Robert Lewis Stevenson wrote Treasure Island. His house was located at 17 Heriot Row if you want to detour, but go back to Frederick Street, which has become Howe and then St. Vincent into St. Stephen Street and you can’t miss the Bailie on the corner of Clarence. It’s a local hangout off the tourist path and its well worth the trek, the food is great plus you can’t beat the atmosphere and local color. They had the biggest menu with a variety of starters, sandwiches, burgers, main courses and side orders as well as a wide selection of brews on tap. From what I could tell everyone enjoyed what they ordered be it haggis, highland rarebit, seafood chowder, fish and chips, pork & apple sausage, or slow roasted pork belly. Of course they offer less traditional fare like nachos, steak or club sandwich for the less adventurous amongst us but do try some of the traditional food, after all when in Rome…
For information on Edinburgh visit www.visitscotland.com and www.visitbritain.us
© October 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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