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By Buzzy Gordon
You couldn’t tell there is an economic downturn from the dining scene in Chicago. Even midweek, fine dining restaurants are full – especially the three associated with Chef Shawn McClain: Spring, Green Zebra and Custom House. His success in the Windy City is soon slated to be replicated in Sin City, where McClain, named James Beard Best Chef Midwest in 2006, will open a restaurant in the Las Vegas mega-project CityCenter.
Choosing which McClain restaurant to eat in is difficult, because they are all so tempting; but general food preferences can help narrow down the decision. Spring is seafood focused, with Asian accents, while Green Zebra is almost all vegetarian, and the menu at Custom House features meat dishes. Custom House is located downtown, while the other two are in residential neighborhoods in the city. At all three establishments, menus are adjusted seasonally for maximum freshness.
I was able to sample the food at Custom House and Spring, and one constant impressed me: the servers are very knowledgeable, and every recommendation they gave me was spot on. You can certainly rely on the waiters to steer you right.
Another asset the two restaurants share is talented pastry chef Elissa Narow. Her creations are inspired, distinctive and not too heavy. Among her more playful creations is a drinkable PB&J she calls a purple cow ice cream float; her unusual ice creams can be flavored with pink peppercorns, tarragon or basil. I can certainly vouch for the Chinese spiced apple and pear bao bing (pancakes).
Now that we’ve started with dessert, let’s backtrack to the beginning: both restaurants boast inventive cocktails, with tasty variations on classic libations.
At Custom House, the emphasis on meat notwithstanding, the appetizers run the gamut from fish and shellfish to game and confits, while the main courses offer choices of imported beef along with more exotic dishes like veal cheeks, rabbit, pork shoulder and a duck breast that is simultaneously juicy and smoky. The pasta sides – tortelli in a walnut pesto and an extraordinarily rich risotto – can also be ordered as main courses.
At Spring, meanwhile, the fish and seafood theme is more closely adhered to, with the added bonus of offerings that are not commonly found, such as Pacific black cod, Atlantic skatewing and barramundi. The latter is a mild and flavorful white fish that was cooked to perfection in a parsley froth.
Even here, however, non-fish dishes have the ability to surprise. The server suggested the braised short rib dumplings over the seafood appetizers, and they were superb. Likewise, the lemongrass and coconut soup was outstanding: layers of subtle flavor building in a marvelous crescendo.
www.customhouse.cc
www.springrestaurant.net
A relatively new entry to the Chicago culinary scene is further proof that the economic downturn is not dampening appetites: Ajasteak a steak and sushi restaurant at the downtown boutique hotel Dana, has not been pleasing appetites for long, but it seems destined to do so for a good while to come.
The sleek interior features a cozy fireplace for wintry weather, but there is also al fresco dining when the weather warms up. A rooftop lounge with a cityscape view and a firepit is an ideal spot for a postprandial drink.
The bold menu was conceived by executive chef Joshua Linton to create a “progressive Asian experience while maintaining traditional steakhouse sensibilities.” The fusion works: the wagyu flatiron steak is a mouthwatering cut of meat, with buttery and salty overtones. The tempura is exactly the way it is supposed to be: thickly cut vegetables battered and fried to a crisp perfection. Equally delectable are the long beans delicately seasoned in a spicy hoisin sauce, and the sautéed baby spinach in a creamy sesame dressing.
For dessert, the coconut crème brûlé is a light, sweet delight, while the bittersweet and milk chocolate soufflé torte will satisfy any chocolate lover.
www.danahotelandspa.com/restaurant/index.cfm
© January 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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