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by Debra C. Argen
This month we have an exceptional Taste of New Orleans Cooks Corner guaranteed to have you making a reservation straightaway to New Orleans, with recipes from Executive Chef Jonathan Wright of The New Orleans Grill at the Windsor Court Hotel, Executive Chef Randy Buck of the Hunt Room at the Hotel Monteleone and Executive Chef Michael Roussel of Brennan’s Restaurant. Laissez les bons temps rouler! (Let the Good Times Roll!) Thank you to all of our talented chefs!
Executive Chef Jonathan Wright of The New Orleans Grill at the Windsor Court Hotelwww.windsorcourthotel.com, www.orient-express.com, took time out
 from creating culinary masterpieces for an interview with LuxuryWeb. This charismatic and brilliant chef, from the United Kingdom, joined The New Orleans Grill in November 2003, and whose impressive career includes stints at Raffles Hotel in Singapore, Sir Terence Conran’s Great Eastern Hotel in London, Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons in Oxfordshire, and has even owned his own restaurant, La Gousse d-Ail in Oxford. Dedicated to creating cuisine that is not only pleasing to the eye as well as the palate, Jonathan special ordered his plates from China for the restaurant. He shares his creative recipes for Tomato Pave, Creamed Avocado, Tomato Sorbet, Bavarois de Poivrons Rouges (Mousse of Red Peppers), and Pave of Heirloom Tomatoes en Presse with Mozzarella and Basil. Please read our in-depth article on The New Orleans Grill in our Restaurants section.
Tomato Pave, Creamed Avocado, Tomato Sorbet
3 pound yellow heirloom tomatoes
3 pound green heirloom tomatoes
3 pound red heirloom tomatoes
1 bunch purple basil or plain green basil
Olive oil
Salt
Sugar
Balsamic vinegar
Avocado Cream
4 avocado pears
2 ounces crème frâiche
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
¼ teaspoon toasted cumin powder
Salt
Sugar
Chili red finely chopped
To Finish: Add Tomato sorbet and deep fried basil leaf (optional).
Method:
The best tomatoes to use for this recipe are the heirlooms variety nice and large, use yellow, green and red. Score the tops of the tomatoes just through the skin. Plunge into boiling water for 10 seconds then in to ice water. Remove the skin. Cut into quarters and with a filleting knife remove the seeds. We use square, stainless steel molds 5 cm x 5 cm by 5 cm, however, you can use similar or round molds which are easily available at hard ware and cooks shops. Use the mold you are using, to cut out the tomatoes, and the rest is very simple Place the tomatoes in a bowl season to taste with salt and sugar, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Place into the mold, red, green, yellow with a leaf of basil in between each layer of tomato. Build the layers ¼ inch above, then wrap in plastic wrap. Press with at least 2 kilograms for 24 hours. For the avocado cream, simply place all ingredients in a blender until very smooth and creamy.
To complete: Place a spoon full of cream in the center of the plate and make a circle about 9 cm in diameter. Sit the tomato pave in the center, and add a scoop of tomato on top with a leaf of fried basil. This can be taken a step further by adding roasted scallops, crab, lobster, or aged balsamic vinegar.
Tomato Consommé
1 pound red bell peppers peeled and chopped
3 pounds ripe to over ripe plum tomatoes chopped
2 ounces sugar
50 ml olive oil
Kosher salt to season
1 bunch fresh basil
Cayenne pepper
1 small sprig fresh rosemary
½ pound diced onion
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 sprig fresh thyme
6 sage leaves
1 dessert spoon tomato paste
1 pint beef stock
For clarification, use 6 egg whites, tomato paste, basil, tarragon leaves, and 2 tomatoes.
Method:
Sauté onion, garlic in olive oil until soft. Add chopped tomatoes, puree, sugar and seasoning, cover and bring to the boil simmer 5 minutes. Remove lid, simmer for 15 minutes, and then with 5 minutes remaining add the basil, tarragon. Liquidize and place in a cheesecloth, and then hang for 8 hours. Add the beef stock, this can be made with out but the addition give the consommé a great body and flavor, if the beef used has gelatin, or trotters are used, this will also give the finished a rich thick jelly like texture which is wonderful on the palette. Whisk lightly the egg whites, chop tomatoes, add herbs and then mix thoroughly into the consommé. Bring up to the boil then turn down temperature and simmer for 10 minutes. This is the clarification and the egg whites will set drawing out all sediment and producing a very clear stock. Adding the tomatoes and herbs releases back into the stock a freshness that it may lose when being clarified. This can be served hot, but is best served cold garnished with fresh mozzarella, basil, olives, and any items easily available from the antipasto counter at any Deli.
Tomato Sorbet
½ pound finely diced onion
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
4 pounds very ripe and seeded tomatoes
1 ounce tomato paste
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 piece orange zest peeled
1 sprig tarragon
2 fluid ounces white wine vinegar
2 fluid ounces simple stock syrup
Salt
Cayenne pepper
Sugar
Olive oil
Method:
Make a syrup of 1 litre water to 800 grams of sugar, and boil until a clear syrup is obtained. Set aside. Sweat the chopped onions, thyme and orange zest in a little olive oil until soft. Add 2/3 tomatoes, the paste and basil and cook for ½ hour, seasoning at the beginning. Add remaining tomatoes, and cook for 8 minutes. Liquidize, pass, and add syrup, vinegar and season to taste. Place in ice cream machine and process.
Bavorois de Poivrons Rouges (Mousse of Red Peppers)
Can be prepared 1 day ahead, as can the Tomato Vinaigrette. Makes 8 – 10 portions.
½ onion, peeled and chopped
½ dl olive oil
2 medium size ripe tomatoes, halved, seeded and finely chopped
5 red peppers, roasted
Salt
Pepper
Cayenne pepper
4 gelatin leaves, soaked in cold water to soften
1 dl white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon raspberry vinegar
4 dl whipping cream
For the Jelly and Julienne of Peppers (optional):
1 red pepper
Salt
Pepper
1 leaf gelatin, softened in cold water
For the sauce:
100 ml olive oil, extra virgin
500 grams cherry tomatoes
5 grams salt
10 ml white wine vinegar
2 grams ground white pepper
10 grams Caster sugar
Always use the ripest tomatoes possible for this recipe. Blend the tomatoes in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Add the olive oil and all remaining ingredients, pass through a very fine sieve. Adjust the seasoning to taste, as this will depend a great deal on the quality of the tomatoes.
Preparing the red pepper mousse:
Roast peppers in tin foil for 30-45 minutes at 190°C until cooked, without being browned. Place in a bowl, add plastic cling film, and let rest for 30 minutes. Remove red peppers from boil, reserve juices for jelly. Sweat the onion in olive oil for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and cook covered with a lid, on medium heat for about 20 minutes. All of the moisture will have been removed. Cool down pulp and add red peppers purée through a food processor and force it through a sieve or mouli-legumes (You should obtain no more than 2 dl purée. You may find you have more). Warm up the purée and add 4 softened gelatin leaves, stir until dissolved. Separately mix the 2 vinegars in a casserole and reduce by 2/3 of its volume and add it to the purée. Taste, and then add salt and cayenne pepper. Cool down completely at room temperature.
Whip cream in a bowl until firm and fold delicately into the pulp. Taste and adjust seasoning. Place ring over a flat serving dish and pour in the mousse. Smooth top with pallet knife and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours to allow it to set.
Preparing the jelly and julienne of peppers: Bring the reserved juice to the boil and dissolve remaining leaf of gelatin in the juice. Allow it to cool down.
Julienne of pepper: Peel the pepper, cut in half de-seed, cut the two halves into strips, divide each strip in half, horizontally, and cut very fine julienne sticks from the pepper. Season it with salt and pepper. Reserve.
Finishing the dish: Scatter julienne of pepper over mousse and spoon out jelly on the top. Refrigerate.
Serving:Loosen the mousse from ring with blade of a warm knife, and then lift the ring. Place raw tomato coulis in a sauceboat and serve to your guests. Should you have more than 2 dl of pulp then use 17 leaves of gelatin per liter of pulp.
Pave of Heirloom Tomatoes en Presse with Mozzarella and Basil
Note: a variety of various types of heirlooms can be used on their own or mixed.
Tomato petals, heirloom are best, must be ripe
Basil, green and purple
Olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
Salt
Sugar
Peeled garlic, blanched once and sautéed until golden
Black Nicoise olives cooked in olive oil
Mozzarella sliced 3mm thick
Fresh thyme leaves
Fennel pollen
Score and blanch the tomatoes. With a sharp knife filet them removing the flesh and any seeds. Place the tomatoes on a wire rack, brush with olive oil and place under heat lamps or in a very low Convection oven until they become semi dried; this will concentrate the flavor and make a more compressed pave. Line the pan with cling film, then a layer of tomatoes, and then season all the tomatoes with salt, sugar and a little pepper. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, but not on yellow or green tomatoes. Inter layer the tomatoes with finely sliced basil, diced olives, and roasted garlic.
The Hunt Room at the Hotel Monteleone www.hotelmonteleone.com, hosted a Spirited Evening on August 19, 2004, as part of the Southern Comfort “Tales of the Cocktail” www.talesofthecocktail.com. The menu was a pairing of cocktails and cuisine by author and Mixologist Mitte Helmich and Executive Chef Randy Buck.
The Spirited Evening Menu
“Barracuda Breeze” - Vodka, Limoncello liqueur, and guava nectar
Herb Cured Salmon Rosette on Wild Rice Blini,
with arugula salad and seven-grain mustard and dill sauce
“Key Lime Martini” - Gin, Cointreau, fresh limes and limejuice
Oyster and Artichoke Soup
“Vieux Carré Cocktail” - Invented at the Hotel Monteleone’s own Carousel Bar. A combination of whiskey and cognac.
Tenderloin of Beef Rockefeller with Herb Saint Scented Spinach,
shredded potato crust and rosemary Merlot sauce
Kumquat Tuaca Champagne Cocktail” - Tuaca, champagne and kumquats
served in a champagne flute
Pecan Tuille Napoleon,
Vanilla custard, poached apples, fresh berries and raspberry coulis.
Award-winning Executive Chef Randy Buck graciously agreed to share his recipes for the Herb Cured Salmon and the Oyster and Artichoke Soup with LuxuryWeb.
Herb Cured Salmon on Wild Rice Blini, Arrugula
with Sweet Grain Mustard Sauce
Serves 8-10 people
 For Salmon:
1 3 pound side of fresh un-skinned salmon (remove small bones)
3 tablespoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons coarse black pepper
5 tablespoons fresh dill (chopped)
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon (chopped)
Mix salt, sugar and pepper in bowl. Mix herbs in a separate bowl. Rub ½ of the salt mixture over the flesh of the salmon. Rub ½ of the herb mixture over the salt covering the fish evenly. Wrap entire salmon in plastic wrap. Place on cookie sheet flesh side down.
Place in refrigerator with a 2 lb. weight on salmon. Refrigerate for 2 days. Unwrap salmon scrape off herbs and salt. Rub the other half of the salt and herbs over fish. Repeat process. Refrigerate 2 more days. Unwrap salmon scrape off salt and herbs. Rewrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
For Blinis:
½ cup buckwheat flour
1 cup whole milk
2 cups wild rice (precooked)
5-6 egg whites
Salt and pepper
In medium mixing bowl combine flour, milk, rice and sugar. In separate mixing bowl beat egg whites until stiff. Fold into rice mixture. Mix well. In medium Teflon skillet ladle 2 ounce portions of the mixture. Cook over medium heat for about 1 minute on each side. Reserve until ready to use. Do not refrigerate.
For the Sauce:
3 tablespoons fresh dill (finely chopped)
4 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup grain mustard
2 tablespoons salad oil
Mix all ingredients and refrigerate.
To Assemble the Rosette: Place the salmon on cutting board. Using a very sharp thin slicing knife begin cutting salmon. Start at the tail. Cut very thin and at a angle making each slice about 2” wide and 4.5” long. Begin rolling the salmon in a cylinder type fashion. Roll one piece around the other folding the top part down as you go. This process will take about 5 pieces per rose.
To Assemble the Plate:
Salmon rosettes
Wild rice blinis
Dill sauce
Fresh dill sprigs (for garnish)
8-10 small bunches of arrugula
Place blini on plate. Place salmon rosette on top of blini. Arrange arrugula on plate, slightly sticking out from under blini. Spoon sauce around plate.
Note: You can make additional garnishes or decorations using blanched leek or scallion stems. Slice thinly and arrange on plate to resemble the stem of the rose.
Oyster and Artichoke Soup
Serves about 10 bowls
 ¾ cup butter
4 tablespoons flour
4 ribs celery (diced)
3 cloves garlic (minced)
¼ red bell pepper (diced)
2 bunches scallions (chopped)
½ small onion (diced)
2 small cans artichoke hearts (quartered)
1 quart oysters (drained and diced, reserve liquid)
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
3 sprigs fresh dill (chopped)
1 ½ quarts chicken stock
2 cups heavy cream
Cayenne to taste
Salt to taste
¼ cup dry sherry
In large saucepot melt butter over medium high heat. Add celery, onion, garlic, and pepper. Cook until soft. Add flour. Cook over medium heat until golden brown. Add stock. Add bay leaves and thyme. Stir mixture until it thickens. Simmer the mixture for about 45 minutes. Add oysters, oyster liquid, heavy cream and sherry. Cook 10 minutes
Add scallions and dill. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Brennan’s Restaurant was the venue for the Southern Comfort “Tales of the Cocktail” Dine & Design Luncheon on August 20, 2004. Executive Chef Michael Roussel of Brennan’s Restaurantwww.brennansneworleans.com generously shares his recipe for New Orleans Turtle Soup from the special luncheon. For more of Brennan’s Restaurant recipes, please look under Brennan’s Restaurant in Cooks Corner.
Dine & Design Luncheon Menu
New Orleans Turtle Soup
Jackson Salad
Iceberg lettuce, chopped hard-boiled egg, crumbly bacon, Bleu cheese, chives and Jackson dressing
Trout Nancy
Filet of fresh trout sautéed and topped with lump crabmeat sprinkled with capers, with a lemon butter sauce
Blackened Chicken Salad Alana
Marinated blackened chicken with fresh field greens, tossed with a garlic-infused oil and vinegar dressing then topped with roasted pecans
Dessert
Bananas Foster
Bananas sautéed in butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and banana liqueur, then flamed in rum. Served over vanilla ice cream.
Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay
New Orleans Turtle Soup
10 - 12 Servings
3 pounds turtle meat
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt
4 quarts cold water
½ cup (1 stick) butter
½ cup onion,finely chopped
½ cup celery, finely chopped
½ cup green bell pepper, finely chopped
½ teaspoon garlic, minced
1 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
4 ounces (½ cup) tomato paste
1 teaspoon caramel coloring (optional)
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 large hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
1 cup sherry
1 lemon, thinly sliced
In a stockpot, combine the turtle meat, bay leaves, and 2 tablespoons of the salt. Add 4 quarts of cold water and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the turtle meat is tender, about 2 hours; add additional water, if necessary, to maintain 3 quarts of liquid during cooking. Strain the turtle meat, reserving the stock. Dice the turtle meat and set aside.
In a large pot, melt the butter and add the onion, celery, bell pepper, garlic, parsley, tomato paste, caramel coloring, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, paprika, and remaining teaspoon of salt. Cook the mixture over low heat until the vegetables are very tender, and then stir in the flour. Increase the heat to medium and cook until the flour absorbs all of the butter. Pour the turtle stock into the pot and bring stock to a boil. Add turtle meat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. Just before serving, remove the bay leaves and add the chopped eggs, sherry and lemon.
Please read our articles on the Windsor Court Hotel, the Soniat House and the Hotel Monteleone in Hotels & Resorts, as well as other articles on New Orleans in Events, Spirits World, Restaurants, Restaurant Notes, and World Music Review.
For information on the Southern Comfort “Tales of the Cocktail”, please visit www.talesofthecocktail.com. For information on New Orleans, please visit www.neworleanscvb.com.
©September/October 2004. All rights reserved.
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