Issue:
January
2012

By Manos Angelakis

Navarra Wines.

During the San Sebastian Gastronomika Conference, we tasted numerous Tsakoli wines, a local white cultivar that works well with the more complex fish- and seafood- based Basque dishes, but is just too light-bodied and acidic for everyday consumption with a substantial meal. The still reds were mostly Tempranillo-based Riojas, though there were a number of wines from other DOCs especially from Priorat and Navarra. There was an entire room dedicated to Cavas, where I rediscovered one producer I like from Barcelona, Segura Viudas which was showing 7 versions from an entry level Brut Reserva to their top of the line Reserva Heredad.

I have become very partial to Garnacha-based wines especially blends; and old-vine Garnachas from Navarra, Aragon (see Groupo Bodegas San Valero and Empire of Garnacha) and Sardinia are now topping my list of favored wines.

Three of the Navarra wines I tasted in San Sebastian, I also found here in the US. From Bodega de Sarría, 2009 Señorío de Sarría Vinedo no. 5, an 100% Garnacha from old vines with an SRP of $15; from Bodega Cirbonera, 2007 Flor de Lasierpe Garnacha Viñas Viejas, also 100% Garnacha from old vines with SRP of $22.70; and an 100% Tempranillo, from Bodegas Chivite, 2007 Chivite Expressión Varietal with SRP $39.90. All three are very good to excellent wines that pair very well to the more elaborate tapas and pintxos (the Basque name for tapas) even the very young Señorío de Sarría.

Bodega de Sarria is situated in the heart of Valdizarbe, an area between La Rioja and Bordeaux. The winery ferments in three million liter stainless steel vats, plus there are 6,000 French and American oak casks which are used for ageing. The Señorío de Sarría is a bright ruby-colored “rosado” wine in the Navarra classic style, fruity, with spices and raspberry on the nose and a medium-body. A bit high in alcohol (14%) it is still a good match for the most intensely flavored pintxos.

Akelarre, a Relais and Chateaux restaurant in San Sebastian is the domain of chef Pedro Subijana, one of the top toques of the Basque cuisine. He offers creative twists on traditional Basque dishes and was a prominent member of the technical committee of the Gastronomika Conference. I had a tasting dinner one evening at the restaurant by myself, as I had heard a lot of positive comments about his dishes from other local chefs in the conference, and I wanted to verify that the creativity of the chef did not impinge in the taste of the final product. I was not disappointed.

As the red wine with the meal I selected the 2007 Flor de Lasierpe, 100% Garnacha from old vines. Dominio Lasierpe is a winery with the largest and most diverse vineyards in Navarra. The Flor de Lasierpe line is characterized by their perfume and aromas, long and smooth on the palate, with persistent notes of fruit. They make other lines as well, but the Flor de Lasierpe line is made of exclusive wines in limited production. The Garnacha is dark garnet colored, with dense fruit on the nose, forest berry fruits on the palate with plenty of firm acidity and has rather chewy tannins at the end. It paired very well with the more intense elements of the tasting menu.

Finally, the piece de resistance, the 2007 Chivite Expressión Varietal. Better known for his "Gran Fuedo Rosado”, Julian Chivite, makes this 100% Tempranillo that is a pleasure to drink. Malolactic fermentation is followed by nine months in oak barriques. Deep ruby-garnet red, it displayed savoury, gamey, meaty notes and a core of ripe plum in a full, firm palate. A true ‘Old World’ red wine, aromatic, with vibrant berry combined with oaky vanilla. Not showy, but maintains perfect balance through the long, smoky finish.

Spain’s younger winemakers are starting to emerge from the shadows of the fathers and forefathers and are creating wonderful wines that pair beautifully not only with the large variety of regional Spanish dishes but also with the developments in international kitchens from around the world.

PS: If you are curious as to what Champagne will be served at the Royal Wedding in England, go to your wine store and ask for a bottle of Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée. Champagne Bollinger has a “Royal Warrant” since 1884, i.e. they are the exclusive purveyor of Champagne to the British Royal family. The Special Cuvée is a non-vintage blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. It is deep golden straw in color with a slow persistent bead. This is a rich, smoky Champagne, which hints of marzipan and bread dough and baked apple on the nose. It has an excellent yeasty and lingering finish, very well suited to a Royal Wedding.

To your health! 

 

 

 

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