Story and photos by Barbara Penny Angelakis
NAPLES, ITALY: A NEW LOOK
I just returned from a week’s trip to Naples, Italy, visiting one captivating sight after another and still only managed to cover a fraction of the rich history waiting to be explored in this ancient seaside city. Certainly there is the posibility of crime and a good measure of chaos, but what major city in the world does not share these problems? Abandon negativity. Embrace the adventure. And come enjoy this vibrant, historic, artistic city, which is clearly one of the
most robust in all of Italy!
Naples is undergoing a renaissance in building and restoration in which many of its previously abandoned or under-maintained buildings are being restored to their earlier grandeur. There are world-class museums that rival those of Rome and Florence and the most unique catacombs… possibly in the world. Lovely 4-star and 5-star hotels line famous Naples Bay providing breathtaking harbor views; while superb restaurants abound, challenging the culinary capitals of Piedmont and Tuscany for gastronomic excellence. In fact, I did not have a mediocre meal the entire week I was there and it was a struggle just to maintain my weight. The saving grace was the very unique cuisine of Naples that consists mainly of seafood and fish, and farm to table local produce that is delicious without the necessity of being drowned in heavy, fattening, sauces. Falangina, Campania’s own food-friendly wine, caressed my palate and added to the enjoyment of long leisurely meals surrounded by Neapolitan hospitality. Naples claims to be the home of pizza and has arguably the best in the world (more about this later). Naples may well be the best kept secret in Italy… the weather was perfect, warm and sunny days
kissed by cool sea breezes, and clear balmy evenings. And if the weather should turn hot, there are wonderful beach opportunities in and around the city to cool you down.
There is no better sightseeing then the environs of Naples; for instance, a 45 minute scenic drive along the water delivers you to the historic ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The offshore islands of Capri, Procida and Ischia provide opportunity for day trips as well as the Amalfi Coast and cliff-side towns like Sorrento and Positano. In Naples old city you can wander for hours through the narrow winding streets where beguiling crafts are created right before your eyes and traditions whisper to you from the ancient buildings. So varied are the opportunities for exploring in and around Naples that you can experience fascinating historical, religious, cultural, artistic, and entertaining sights; or just do nothing at all and 
watch the passing scene, which never ceases to amuse.
My love affair with Naples begins in the old city at Piazza Dante, with the Gesù Nuovo, or the New Jesus Church. The 15th century embossed gray stone façade does little to prepare one for the resplendent 17th century Baroque interior which is covered in multi-colored marble and adorned with stunning paintings by the most famous artists of the 16th century. www.gesunuovo.it
And literally across the road from the Gesù Nuovo, is the amazing Santa Chiara Cloister complex. The glorious day was perfect for admiring the brightly colored Majolica tiles that decorate the garden’s benches and columns, and the exterior painted walls of the Cloister were like visiting an open-air museum of endles
s wonder. It was hard to depart this garden with its well tended trees and flowers, offering a verdant counterpoint to the lavish artwork. www.santachiara.info
Returning to the bustling street, we made our way to the Cappella Sansevero, a unique chapel/museum that is ostensibly the sepulcher of the Princes of Sangro di Sansevero. Although originally erected in the late sixteenth century by Giovan Francesco di Sangro, it was the 18th century alchemist and eccentric seventh Prince of Sansevero, Prince Raimondo, that is responsible for the chapel/mausoleum containing both Christian and mystical Masonic symbolism. It seems that Prince Raimondo was Grand Master of the Freemasons in the Kingdom of Naples. Among the sculptures that fill the small chapel, the most well known is Giuseppe Sammartino’s alabaster masterpiece of the dead Christ covered by a marble veil. But to me the most intriguing image was that of a small gold face mask [of Jesus] that was on the wall behind the High Alter. Curiously it is not even mentioned in the floor plan which I found odd since it was so captivating. The guard, noticing my concentration on the mask, told me that most people reacted in a similar fashion… if they discovered the mask! Possibly this icon is linked to a deeper mystery of the chapel? www.museosansevero.it
The old city is sometimes referred to as the Spaccanapoli which literally means 
“split the city” after the straight main road of Via Tribunali which visually divides the city in two. Intersecting the main streets of Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei Librai is Via San Gregorio Armeno, which is a street replete with charming hand-made craft stores. Here you will find the famous hand-carved Naples Nativity cribs or “presepi” - religious figurines of the Christmas story born out of the religious displays in the churches. An extension of this craft are the representations of ordinary people that tell in intricate detail the story of their daily lives throughout their history – accurate in dress and activity and honestly reproduced with maladies, warts and all. This ancient Neapolitan artistic expression evolved over time into an entertainment of secular pleasure for the European aristocracy whose dress and activities they copied for their games. The scenes which were initially devout in nature developed into allegory and fantasy incorporating religious iconography with Greek and Roman dress and architecture.
Here too you will find the commedia dell’arte masks and representations of Pulcinella and the Red Horn Mascot - which tradition states must be given as a gift in order to release its good luck powers. There were beautifully painted drums used for the tarantella and one of my traveling companions, Carolyn Masone of Essence of Italy (www.essenceofitaly.net) who is exceptionally well versed in the history and traditions of Italy, shared her insights into the deep social and mythological aspects of this well known musical expression.
According to Carolyn, the tarantella was initially a dance that exorcised madness from young women who were afflicted by the bite of the tarantula spider (thus tarantella) while working in the fields. Caught in a web of societies making, helpless young woman were coerced into marrying man not of their choosing - perhaps not even to their liking - and then forced to work for them in the fields. Crazed by repressed desires… or the misery of their lives… or actual toxins from the tarantulas bite, the young woman would begin a frenzied dance. A local shaman would beat the drum in a specific rhythm to draw out the poison and exorcise the physical or emotional distress of the possessed maiden. Woven into this mythology is the Greek tale of Arachne and Athena and the Gods punishment for hubris. For Carolyn’s full explanation refer to www.essenceofitaly.net/journal/2009/06/alessandra_belloni_part_1_rhyt.php
From the story of unrequited passion to rock hard reality took us 5,000 years, 121 steps, and 40 meters down into the underground city beneath the old town. Originally excavated by the Greeks for the tufa stone with which to build the ancient city, the Romans expanded the digging to construct an aqueduct to
maintain a constant supply of fresh water for the growing population. The aqueduct was used until a cholera epidemic forced its closure in 1884. During WW11 the warren of tunnels and caves were used as an air raid shelter. www.napolisotterranea.org
Returning to the street, our next stop was into a typical Neapolitan home of the 1st - century. The tiny bedroom housed a small single bed which when pushed aside revealed a stairway and entrance to the Greek-Roman Theatre where Nero made his theatrical debut. During one of Nero’s performances the ground began to shake. Undeterred by the earthquake, Nero continued to sing and at the end of the show he thanked both the audience and the gods for their applause. Overlooking the excavated theatre through interior windows, a home similar to the one we originally entered, had been converted into a Bed & Breakfast… truly the most interesting accommodation one could ask for in the heart of the ancient city. By the way, the name Napoli, is a corruption of the Greek “Nea Polis” i.e. New City; that is why when referring to the inhabitants the name becomes Neapolitans, citizens of the new city. For information on accommodations email info@napolisotterranea.org
And Now More About Neapolitan Pizza…
We took a welcom break from our exploration to check out one of the most renowned brick oven pizzerias in Naples. There were long lines to get into the two-story Gino Sorbillo Pizzaria, but trust me; it was well worth the wait. Pizzas 
came flying out of the oven and finally it was my turn. The pizza over hung the plate and was so large that I couldn’t believe that it was all for me… it was! I had ordered the famous Margherita, named after the beloved Queen Margherita. In 1868 at the age of 17, Margherita of Savoy married her first cousin and future King of Italy, Umberto. Knowing virtually nothing about her new land but anxious to learn, she had heard there was a savory pie called pizza and asked that one be brought to her. The chef, overwhelmed by this monumental responsibility, was reluctant to present the Queen with a common pizza. So, as the story goes, he created a pie to represent the colors of the flag of Margherita’s adopted country – red sauce, with splashes of white mozzarella, and topped with green basil. It was an instant success and still one of the most frequently ordered pizzas. I saw many people eating just the center out of their enormous, paper-thin pie but true to New York pizza etiquette, “I et the whole thing!” Gino Sorbillo is located in the heart of the old city at Via Tribonali, 32.
Now fortified, we made our last stop of the day at the National Archeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Nazionale). This world-class antiquities museum has the largest and finest collection of frescoes, mosaics, and statues excavated from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Allow several hours to explore this remarkable collection before making the short journey to the site(s) themselves… your experience will be all the richer for having seen up close and personal the original works of antiquity. There is an added bonus that you are allowed to take photos (no flash please) of these items, a rare perk these days. Be advised however that you must ask to view the Secret Cabinet Room of Erotic works which is accessible only by a museum employee and for obvious reasons.
In the next few days I visited several other notable sites, among them, the Palazzo Reale or Royal Palace. Noteworthy is the exterior which has been restored and is adorned with larger then life 19th-century statues representing the dynasties of Naples. The interior great halls are filled with original furniture, tapestries, paintings, and porcelain, as well as a grouping of Queen Margherita’s clothing and jewelry. Note how very tiny she was.
On weekends the handsome wide Piazza del Plebiscito, directly in front of the Palace, hosts dozens of wedding parties taking pictures and celebrating their nuptials, turning the plaza into a sea of white bouffant gowns. And just across the plaza you will find a steady stream of visitors entering Gran Caffe Gambrinus, a 150 year old confectionery, for a refreshment and an ogle. Beautifully designed 
and decorated by the most renowned artists of the age, and serving some of the cities tastiest gelato, it is one of the best-known meeting places in Naples.
The Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte, built in 1738 by the Bourbon King Charles III as a hunting lodge, is now the Capodimonte Fine Art Museum. It houses a huge and stunning collection of Italian paintings by such greats as Titan, Botticelli, Perugino, Raphael and Sebastiano del Piombo. But without a doubt, the biggest surprise to me was the San Gennaro Catacombs which initially I was disinclined to visit, having been in catacombs previously and found them to be distasteful. But this was distinctly different. Vaulted ceilings 
and wide aisles are carved out of the tufa dating back to the 2nd century and was the original burial place of San Gennaro. The catacomb was not only used as a final resting place for the dead, it was also a church for the living… and still is… which gives a totally different feeling to these underground chambers. Mosaics and frescoes adorn the burial alcoves carved out along the walls and I found it fascinating that as additional family members were interred, the art was re-done to accommodate the new addition. www.catacombedinapoli.it
So, for palaces and gardens, museums and churches, pizza parlors and gelato cafes, underground cities and catacombs, dinner cruises and excavated buried cities, ancient traditions and modern mysteries… Naples offers so much.
How to get there:
Meridiana fly has direct flights to Naples from JFK
www.meridiana.com
Where to stay:
Royal Continental Hotel is located on seafront promenade facing Bay of Naples.
The hotel has been recently renovated and refurbished. Rooms have stunning views, comfortable furnishings and bedding, potable drinking water in bathroom, panoramic open-air rooftop seawater swimming pool, and is within walking distance of many of Naples primer attractions.
www.royalgroup.it/eng/royal_continental_napoli/
How to get around:
Campania Incoming Tour Operator
www.campaniaincoming.it
© August 2011 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
Issue:
January
2012