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By Manos Angelakis and Barbara Penny Angelakis
More New York City Restaurant Notes
212 Restaurant and Bar (133 East 65th Street, New York, NY 10065, www.212restaurant.com), is a hip, eclectic, and crowd-pleasing bistro style restaurant perfectly suited to its audience of twenty and thirty somethings that were raised on fast foods and are not comfortable in the eating establishments of their parent’s generation. The energy level is highly animated as befits a crowd that is used to talking at the upper register of their vocal cords, with good hearing, and better lungs. There is an excellent bar featuring all the newest cocktail concoctions as well as an extensive wine list. In fact it is a good thing that 212 is open 365 days a year as it would take at least that long to go through the many mixology offerings. The fare is heavy on the “something for everyone” philosophy featuring salads, small plates, finger foods, Asian influences, and Italian dishes. Executive chef Vincent Chirico was at his finest with the special appetizer du jour of sautéed Foie Gras. It was served crispy on the outside with a balsamic accent, and rare inside, and accompanied by a tasty fig compote with a dusting of pistachio nutmeat. The exotic combination of tastes, textures, and perfect cooking was exemplary and I for one would like to see Chef Chirico’s creations replace some of the more mundane offerings. Given time, it might happen as he has been at the helm for only a short period.
The Dove Parlour (228 Thompson Street, off West 3rd Street) is the newest incarnation of an old favorite Italian restaurant in the West Village, called The Grand Tissino. It is amazing what a new owner and a fresh coat of paint can accomplish when it comes to the ever changing New York City barscape. Located a few steps below the street, a façade of white panes gives way to a candlelit room with red velvet wallpaper, a Victorian molded-tin ceiling, and a fireplace full of lit candles. According to the co-owner Jen Armstrong, this is Federalist décor, replicating a townhouse in Georgetown, but to me it looks more like Victorian Bordello chic. Drinks are served on dainty doilies to a smart crowd of young locals who appreciate the large variety of cocktail potions and the wide array of wines by the glass.
Del Posto (85 Tenth Avenue, in the Meatpacking District, (212) 497-8090) creates a quality dining experience in one of the greatest indoor spaces in New York City. The menu the co-owners, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali selected, represents a convergence of different styles of Italian cooking as created by three top American culinary names. Detractors claim “it is only a splashy combination of canny marketing and aggressive extravagance, representing a conspicuous and somewhat strained attempt to put Italian cooking on the same level as haute French cuisine, in a Michelin-approved style”. My experience was that, with Chef Mark Ladner (formerly of Lupa) in the kitchen, the cooking is distinguished by first-rate ingredients, clean flavors and superior tastes. And, in addition, there is the impeccable service and a wine list featuring a comprehensive and in-depth selection of many of the best Italian wines, over 1200 selections, and over 100 Champagnes.
© February 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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