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By Manos Angelakis
LON’s at the Hermosa
5532 North Palo Cristi Road
Scottsdale AZ 85253
Reservations recommended (602) 955-7878
LON’s at the hermosa, is a very popular restaurant in Paradise Valley, and is part of the Hermosa Inn (see Hermosa Inn story in Hotels & Resorts).
 Set in the hacienda that was the hand-built adobe home and studio of cowboy artist Lon Megargee, famous for his depictions of cowboy life, LON’s occupies most of the interior space, including a bar area, 3 dinning rooms, boardroom and wine cellar and, of course a very large kitchen. All rooms, with the exception of the wine cellar, have working fireplaces and are decorated with Southwestern memorabilia and images from Lon’s artistic career. Megargee’s most famous painting decorates the inside of every Stetson hat, and an authentic old Stetson (with a bullet-hole pierced rim) is on display with the famous image still visible inside. A copy of the original painting hangs next to the fireplace in the bar area that was part of  the original ranch house he called home. The wine cellar and boardroom are available for small or medium sized group meals or corporate events. An outdoor flagstone, flower surrounded, patio with adobe fireplaces is used for both lunch and diner, at lunchtime with oversized market umbrellas to shield the diners from the hot Arizona sun and in the evening with the fireplace and a number of mobile heating units to dispel the desert cold.
The wine cellar, the only cave-like underground true cellar in the area, has an exceptional collection of California and Oregon wines, and a number of European and Australian bottles. The cellar was constructed along traditional Spanish Hacienda lines using reclaimed beams and antique furnishings.
 Chef Michael Rusconi has put his mark on LON’s award-winning “Artful American Cuisine”, combining European technique with very high quality ingredients and fresh, locally grown produce. Much of the greens, herbs, and vegetables served at LON’s grow in the chef’s garden, a half-acre site north of the property’s kitchens. The culinary team cultivates and maintains the garden.
Chef Rusconi and his staff are constantly scanning the horizon for the freshest, most flavorful beef, pork, duck, seafood, cheese, and produce on the market. Fresh lobster, cod, and mussels are supplied by a small company in Boston; the Chef places his order, the seafood is harvested, packed, air shipped, and delivered to the restaurant in 24 hours. Citrus and other fruit, chilies, olives, and such specialty items as prickly pear syrup are purchased locally.
As for his food philosophy, Chef Rusconi says simply, “Buy the best ingredients and treat them with love and respect; only by doing that you will be able to deliver the best quality possible”.
 Sitting under Arizona’s starry skies and a full moon, we started our dinner with an Alaskan Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado and Gazpacho Gelee, a flavorful, fresh-from-the-sea timbale of crabmeat resting on avocado, swimming on a cold vegetable-broth gelee and topped with edible flowers and strips of candied citrus rind. A refreshing opening to a lovely meal, paired with glasses of the widow Clicquot’s Yellow label.
The meat dishes were all excellent, in concert with the cowboy-on-the-range theme and the aroma of burning alligator juniper wood wafting from the outdoor  fireplaces. The Boneless Short Rib of Beef with Vanilla Scented Potato Purée and Ancho Chocolate Sauce was a sophisticated rendition of a standard. The beef was fork-tender and the ancho chocolate sauce gave it an unmistakable spicy accent, which contrasted nicely with the bold Rioja red accompanying it. Also very tender and flavorful was the wood-grilled Black Angus Tenderloin, though I have some reservations about the truffled macaroni and cheese side – it is gilding the lily. The tenderloin was paired with a Ramsey Claret from Napa, a mostly Cabernet bistro-styled blend meant for easy and early drinking. My absolutely favorite was the Sundried Tomato Crusted Rack of Lamb. Served in between these dishes was a  palate-cleansing sorbet. Another example of the kitchens culinary excellence was the Pan-roasted George’s Bank Scallops with Achiote Essence; even though I normally don’t like scallops, this dish left me asking for more.
We finished the meal with a Flourless Chocolate Giaduja Napoleon, with fresh mint and raspberries. It was light and a delight after the filling meat dishes.
Although the atmosphere on the patio was charming and dining al fresco in such a beautiful setting was a treat for us northerners, the one drawback was the lighting – or lack of it – which made viewing the plate presentations practically impossible. I enjoy the presentation and like to see what I am eating so on our next visit to Lon’s I would opt for indoor seating in one of the rustic, western-themed rooms and leave the patio dining for lunchtime.
© February 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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