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By N. A. Ross
Long before the upper-crust Victorian Europeans went to “take the waters”, referring to the curative abilities of mineral-laden water from springs in volcanic regions, Japan reveled in the delights of “onsen”, the open-air public (sentō) hot spring baths that are the basis of this quintessentially Japanese form of relaxation. However, please note that while the Japanese are usually very understanding if foreigners make cultural mistakes, the public bath is one area where the uninitiated can seriously offend the regular customers. Therefore make sure that you are informed of the onsen etiquette before embarking in an onsen plunge.
 Nowadays, visitors from all over the world come to experience the relaxing joy of the natural surroundings. This is the “real Japan”, the traditional way of living that, unfortunately has given way to concrete, vending machines, loud music, extreme congestion and practically total overmodernization. Other experiences here like aromatherapy, accupressure, natural meals, and unhurried living make these resorts refuges from everyday big-city reality for both Japanese and Westerners alike.
Traditional inns called “Ryokan” are usually located by or are part of the onsen. The ryokan has been an integral part of Japanese culture for centuries. The earliest ryokans were built for functionaries journeying between Tokyo and the Imperial Palace of Kyoto. The simplest were actually the B&Bs of the period, offering extra rooms in private homes to the travelers. Others were actual inns, offering little luxuries and exceptionally exquisite and elaborate cuisine.
Today, there are approximately 63,000 ryokans in Japan, of which 1,800 are high quality establishments belonging to the Japan Ryokan Association.
 My stay at Hoshinoya in Karuizawa has been one of the most memorable experiences. The landscaping and grounds provide sensual joy. Lush terraces and man-made waterfalls delight the senses. The ryokan is set amongst Karuizawa’s thick forest of Japanese maple. Architect/designer Rie Azuma highlights leafy canopies and sculptured trunks with subtle illumination; in the autumn, the forest is robed in gold and crimson glory. Stone paths to the baths and dinning room are romantically lit. The room design is based on textured plaster walls the color of green tea and the bedrooms have cathedral ceilings, a sign of ultimate luxury in a country where doorways and ceilings normally challenge tall Westerners.
Breakfast and dinner are served in the inn’s grand lodge, named after the owner’s father. The open kitchen has guests marveling at the chefs’ dexterity in preparing traditional Japanese breakfasts or multi-course kaiseki dinners. These dinners are a delight of aesthetic perfection as each little savory dish is highlighted by the ceramic, glass or lacquerware vessel in which it is presented. We enjoyed little seasonal dishes of sashimi, tempura, cooked daikon radish, sushi, tofu, Nagano beef, dried lotus chips, pomegranate seeds and pear jelly. Each season’s best make up the menu.
© May 2006 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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