Story and photography by Barbara Penny Angelakis
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JADE MOUNTAIN
P.O. Box 4000
Soufriere
ST. LUCIA
www.jademountainstlucia.com
Last month I wrote about the delightful Aeolian Islands; a grouping of volcanic islands born out of the Tyrrhenian Sea off the coast of Sicily.
Serendipitously this month, I find myself in the East West Indies volcanic island of St. Lucia in the Caribbean Sea. So similar and yet so different... both have calm deep-blue waters gently rolling off striking black sand beaches; stunning mountain views that are the good-news result of bad-news violent volcanic upheaval eons ago; warm sunny days and sultry nights; verdant wild growing vegetation; a native cuisine created from locally grown produce; and warm, friendly people with easy smiles. The one striking difference is that the Mediterranean ended up with a dry, arid landscape while the Caribbean is rainforest wet and humid. And so, the identical cataclysmic conditions that raised both island paradises from the sea floor ended in uniquely different environments… and both delicious to experience.
St. Lucia, the largest of the Windward Islands, was belched from the floor of the Caribbean Sea in a massive explosion which propelled the Pitons skyward. The Piton peaks are the two spectacular conical mountains that are the defining landscape of the southwest coast of the island that provide an ever changing photo op - literally minute by minute -from Jade Mountain Resort at Anse Chastanet.
The first glimpse of the Pitons from the challenging access road to Jade Mountain is one of those marvels of nature that literally cause you to stop breathing. You regain your breath when again the foliage covers the view, and by the time the full majesty of the Pitons is visible again, the clearing also affords a glimpse of the Jade Mountain Resort which has
to be seen to be believed.
Jade Mountain, like the Pitons, was born through a creative explosion of mythic proportions. Architect – designer - hotelier, Nick Troubetzkoy had a vision and the skill and determination to bring his vision to life. More than 10 years after his eureka vision and 3 years under construction, Jade Mountain opened in 2007. Built at a higher point on Morne Chastanet, as a hilltop sister to his existing award winning luxury resort Anse Chastenet, Nick indulged full expression to his dream of being at one with nature by employing rare natural woods and stones as his building blocks and the most elegant, innovative, and luxurious details, to each of the 24 distinct sanctuaries (suites). He used materials and workmen found locally whenever possible, and designed each sanctuary so that it literally floats in space and is totally private, except to the birds that flitter in and out through the open wall that leaves nothing between you and the spectacular 
view of the Pitons and the Sea, except air. The view is so mesmerizing; the quality of service so outstanding; the space so romantic, that many couples spend their entire vacation without ever leaving their sanctuary.
There is no air conditioning (ceiling fans and trade winds keep you cool), no TV, no radio, no phone, no clock, no internet connections in the sanctuaries (but available at the reception) and if you want to know the time, or need sun tan lotion applied to your back, or want breakfast served in bed, in fact anything you can think of, just ring (a call-key is provided on arrival) for your personally assigned Majordomo. The level of 24/7 service at your beck and call at Jade Mountain exists almost no where else, and is tantamount to being treated like royalty. Pickup from, and return to, the airport; cool drink and 
warm smile greeting at the entrance on arrival and departure; a stocked on-demand refrigerator; 24 hour housekeeping and meal service are at your disposal, and on your time schedule.
Each open-air sanctuary - living room; elevated bathroom area featuring a big enough for two massage-jet tub with color lighting; dining area; 15-foot ceilings; and en-suite infinity pool - is entered by an individual pedestrian bridge that marks the beginning of your private space. The overall layout of the cliffhanging hotel is reminiscent of a wheel cut in half with the spokes or bridges spreading out from the mountain host and ending in a pod-like refuge. All of the sanctuaries sport a different individual layout and color scheme. A design highlight is the different colored iridescent glass tiles used to line the pools and bathrooms in each sanctuary. The tiles change with the light and are mirrored in the iridescence of the water far below. When a rainbow lights up the sky and is reflected in your sanctuary’s pool, the colors all seem to blend in a synchronicity
of sea, mountain and sky. While the one with nature concept is certainly not new, it is the execution of the ideal and sheer magnificence of the natural setting that makes this hotel such a standout.
On site there is the Shades of Jade boutique with elegant apparel as well as craft gifts and a small fully equipped spa located below the reception area, although most guests prefer to enjoy service in their sanctuary. The treatments are top notch and I experienced for the first time a four-handed Anpagal massage. Based on the principles of Abhyanga - the Ayurvedic warm oil, double handed massage - this treatment detoxifies and re-nourishes the tissues and joints and rebalances the body’s subtle energies. Worked in yin/yang tandem it takes many months of practice for the male and female therapists to perfect synchronization of movement and coordination of pressure before they are permitted to work on a client. I also enjoyed an Ayurvedic Holistic facial that left my face looking rejuvenated for days after I left the Kai en Ciel Spa.
For information on Jade Mountain visit www.jademountainstlucia.com and for Anse Chastanet www.ansechastanet.com
I am here to attend Mango Madness Festival with Jade Mountain Resort Consulting Chef Allen Susser, author of New World Cuisine and Cookery, The Great Citrus Book and The Great Mango Book. He is one of the foremost authorities on the subject of mangos and a James Beard award winning Chef.
The marriage of Chef Susser and Jade Mountain reads like a fairy tale romance. Karolin & Nick Troubetzkoy were frequent visitors at Chef Allen’s eponymous Miami restaurant. www.chefallens.com Long impressed with his culinary fusion of cultures cooking style (Indian, Caribbean, and French) and his use of fresh local ingredients and spices, they invited him to visit their hotel within a hotel then under construction.
There he was introduced to the Anse Mamin plantation… 600 acres of wild growing mango, citrus, cashew nut, breadfruit, vanilla and cocoa trees. Chef Allen fell in love with the land and the people and accepted the position of Consulting Chef for Jade Mountain. Under his tutelage, the plantation now provides Jade Mountain’s three restaurants with an abundance of fruits and vegetables, around which he seasonally builds his menus in cooperation with Executive Chef Jonathan Dearden.
Our mango education began Friday morning with an easy walk through the Anse Mamin plantation with Chefs Susser and Dearden. They pointed out different varietals of mango trees, and the shapes, sizes and colors of the fruits they bear. Chef Susser is in fact lobbying to have mangos designated by name, just like apples or melons, so that when you buy a mango you will know what kind it is likely to be; delicate, sharp, sour, silky, or stringy. Mangos can be enjoyed in any number of ways… mature, green, fresh, cooked, in salads, desserts, to accent a meat, fish, seafood or poultry entrée, as an appetizer, whatever… let your imagination be your guide.
Meanwhile, back at Anse Mamin plantation… Chef Susser explained that almost none of the trees now abundantly growing were native to St. Lucia but were brought by a succession of nations - starting with those looking for the trade roots to India, but quickly moving on to Dutch, French, English, etc. - in an explosion of agricultural globalization in the 16th and 17th centuries. Nurtured by the Caribbean sun and abundant rainfall, and pollinated by native birds, the
different plants took root in the rich volcanic soil and thrived.
After our walkabout we returned to the black sand beach for our barbeque lunch and cooking demonstration. First, Chef Susser showed us the proper method of using gravity to find out where to cut into a mango. Place the mango on a flat surface with the stem side at the top and away from you and allow the fruit to come to rest on one cheek. Roll the mango half way back to center and slice off the cheek on each side of the pit with a sharp knife. Slice off the two fingers left surrounding the pit and peel. And the best part… suck the fruit and juice from the pit and discard. Place cheek in palm of hand, skin side down, and score flesh vertically and then crossways but do not cut into the skin (or your hand). Place fingers of both hands on the
underside of the skin and push fruit up. This will separate the scored squares and allow you to slip them off the skin intact. You can also cut the cheek long ways only, and with a large round spoon, scoop out the flesh. On a green mango (unripe) put a pinch of salt to bring out the flavor and sweetness.
Chef Susser is a truly inspired teacher sharing his techniques and kitchen wisdom in a humorous and user-friendly manner. He invites questions and is generous with his recipes. He likes to blend Indian and Caribbean spices in chutney or as a cooked savory, and the recipes he made for us can all be found in his book or on his web site. My favorites were a cool ripe mango salsa and a cold green mango salsa served with fire roasted chicken or fish.
But that was only the beginning. Friday evening cocktail party began with a passion fruit and crushed mango Moroccain Mint Martini… goodbye Mojito, hello
Martini! And a variety of flower-bedecked canapés of tuna sashimi with mango and ginger salsa; dorado ceviche with green mango and lime; chorizo and mango souscaille; Thai beef, scallion and mango skewer; and barbecued pork with mango “sosaties”.
Saturday afternoon’s cooking class highlights were freshly caught quick seared tuna with green mango, and shrimp with mango curry, but the Night of 1000 Mangos dégustation dinner in the evening, was the piece de résistance of the weekend! Bonito Tuna Sashimi - Wakami Sesame Seaweed, Mango-Wasab
i Melted Sorbet - served with a very drinkable non-vintage Prosecco. Watermelon Gazpacho with Pineapple Mango Ginger Salsa came next, with a 2007 Pinot Grigio Cantina Valdadige, but I preferred to stick with the Prosecco. The salad offering was a choice of Thai Kobe Short Rib and Green Mango Salad or Saint Lucia Organic Mixed Herbs and Green Salad with Edible Flowers and a Sesame Balsamic dressing accompanied by 2006 Fume Blanc Ferrari Carano. There was a choice of 3 for the entrée – meat, fish or vegetarian – but I choose the Amchar (dried green mango powder) Mango Grilled New Zealand Rack of Lamb seated on
Caribbean Ratatouille and Grilled Mango Cheeks in a Pinot Noir Reduction. A 2007 Mark West Pinot Noir was served. Dessert choices were Crispy Mango Ravioli with Passion Fruit Mojito Syrup or a Caramelized Mango Bread Pudding with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and a 2004 Carta Vieja late Harvest.
This event is held annually by Chef Allen along with a “Cooking in Paradise” food event in April and “Discover Chocolate” this year to be held on December 4-6. All three events feature foods grown on the Anse Mamin Plantation. For information on these and other events at Jade Mountain visit www.jademountainstlucia.com or contact jademountain@ansechastanet.com
© August 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
Issue:
January
2012