Issue:
January
2006

 by Debra C. Argen and Edward F. Nesta

A Celebration of the Gastronomy of Spain

Cipriani, 110 East 42^nd Street, New York City, was the setting for “A Celebration of the Gastronomy of Spain”, hosted by the Government of Spain, (www.spainbusiness.com), on February 11, 2004. It was an incredible evening of wine and tapas tasting, with music provided by the Francis A. Varrichio Guitar Studio & Orchestras.The wines represented Spain’s 63 wine producing regions, and the tapas were prepared by some of the top tapas restaurants in New York. In addition, there was a large selection of Spanish cheeses, olives, Jamón Serrano, olive oils and other products to sample.

Over 50 tables presented some of the best wines of Spain. Although we did not sample from each and every one, we certainly tried to sample some of the best. A few favorites were from Vinos Gustin-Padró. Their Alzania 2001 Crianza D.O. Navarra, a mix of 56% Tempranillo, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and Garnacha, and aged 12 months in American, Russian and French oak, is priced at $27, and worth cellaring, as it already shows very well. However, the vineyard really shows its craft with their Alzania Seleccion Privada 2000 D.O. Navarra, a mix of 71% Cabarnet Sauvignon and 29% Tempranillo, and aged 16 months in French oak. This dark, rich wine has a complex taste, and incredible finish. At $59, it is a special treat.

A rare find included Blecua 2000D.O.C.Somontano with an alcohol content of 13.5%, low sugar and Ph, this is an excellently balanced wine with spectacular deep cherry color, and is complex and intense on the nose. The Beluca 2000 is crafted mainly from Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, Garnacha, and Tempranillo and exhibits elegant aromas from its aging in oak, at $87 a bottle this is a rare wine which will continue to improve in the bottle for at least 10 years.

One exceptional wine from the Rioja region that we tried was the Marqués de Tomares, Gran Reserva 1995, a mix of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Mazuelo. It proved to be a very complex wine, with deep, rich flavor, and long finish. At $50, it is an excellent wine to drink now, or cellar to enjoy in the future. Other favorites included: Ganuza Reserva 1998, Bodegas Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, D.O.C. Rioja, $65, which had a strong bold flavor, and the Mirto “Super Rioja” 30 year old vines 1999, Ramón Bilbao, D.O.C. Rioja,  $37, with “million dollar legs”, deep rich color, and long finish. Lastly, we tasted the Valdeirz, Tomas Esteban Ribera Del Duero from the José Moura Selection. Another deep cherry red wine that was  complex on the nose, long on the finish, and superbly priced at around $50. 

Moving on to brandies, a favorite was Carlos I Brandy de Juarez Solera Gran Reserva, Pedro Domecq, D.E. Brandy de Juarez . This brandy has a strong nose, and has a nutty, almost butterscotch flavor, and is priced at $50.

A sampling of Spanish wines would not be complete without tasting a few Sherries, which were very well represented at the event. Sherry is characterized as dry and a bit sweet, which creates a true plethora of products, and is truly a personal preference when selecting the level of dry, sweet and balance to compliment food as an aperitif, with tapas, soups and seafood entrees. No tasting of Sherry would be complete without a note on Tio Pepe Fino Muy Seco Gonzalez Byass, an excellent day-to-day Sherry at about $13 a bottle, which has established its place among the “house” Sherries and great with tapas and soups. Two other favorites were, Dry Sack 15 Yr. Old, Williams & Humbert, D.O. Jerez-Xérès- Sherry, distributed by William Grant & Sons. This is typical to the Amontillado style with amber color, dry and robust in taste with a slight nutty smell that would go great as an aperitif; with poultry, meat or after dinner and at $25 a bottle is an excellent alternative to a wine accompaniment. Our last Sherry review is reserved for the Sibarita Palo Cortado Sherry, Pedro Domecq, D.O.Jerez-Xérès Sherry from Marques de Arienzo & Domecq Sherries. This is a rare style of Sherry with a nose possessing a slightly nutty smell and a dark, full and exotic body. This is a truly special Sherry, which when pairing it with food and friends, will hold itself up to meat, good friends and an outstanding evening. At $83 this is indeed a special treat for all to enjoy.

Along with the wines, sherries and brandies, there were excellent Spanish cheeses to sample, but an absolute favorite from The Cheese Works, Ltd. was the Montenebro Cheese, from Castilla y León - an artisan goat cheese, which was creamy, rich, with strong goat flavor.

Although the tapas selection was vast, our favorite tapas was from Azafrán, 77 Warren Street, New York, the Brocheta de Gambas y Dátiles, skewered shrimp and dates marinated and grilled in Azafrán’s special spices, which were outstanding.

After sampling some of the best wines and products from Spain, there will definitely be a trip to Spain this year!

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