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Story and photography by Manos Angelakis
Fontana Candida in Frascati
Fontana Candida is a well-known Frascati wine producer located in the commune of Frascati, about 30 minutes southeast of Rome. Frascati is a white wine from the Lazio (Latium) hills that have well drained volcanic soil. Because of this soil, the better wines have considerable minerality, almost as distinct as a very dry Riesling from one of the better German vineyards.
Traditionally, Frascati is a blend of Malvasia grapes (50% of Malvasia di Candia is required for the DOC designation) and Trebbiano, Trebbiano Giallo or Toscano, and Greco or Grechetto or Bombino Bianco or other Malvasia clones. It is the selection of the Malvasia varietals that makes Fontana Candida’s creations such an exceptionally flavorful and aromatic wine. In addition to the Trebbiano, the owned vineyards grow Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia Bianca, and Malvasia di Lazio (the Puntinata clone), and select other varieties are purchased from nearby vineyards. Most Italian varieties of Malvasia are closely related to Malvasia Bianca, but one notable exception is the variety known as Malvasia di Candia, which, with Malvasia del Lazio – a closely related varietal - is a distinctly different sub-variety of Malvasia. Fermentation is generally in steel.
I have to note that while tasting the current vintages at the winery, Mauro Merz, the Direttore di Cantina and winemaker, brought in from the cellar hewn out of the volcanic rock, a 1999 bottle of Frascati Superiore “Terre dei Grifi”, a product not available in the US. Now, Frascati is not supposed to age well. But this bottle from an excellent vintage, was golden yellow, a little less aromatic than the current Frascati Superiore product, but much more complex and smoother. In other words, an oenophile’s wine. So, if someone tells you that Frascati does not age, I have tasted the proof that it does, and very well.
What one will currently find in the US is Fontana Candida’s Frascati Superiore 2007. A blend of 50% Malvasia di Candia, 40% Trebbiano, 10% Malvasia del Lazio. Lovely fresh nose, white flowers, and ripe sour apple. The palate has a core of lemony acidity, but is well balanced and fresh.
Because Fontana Candida has very recently joined the brands imported by Banfi, expect improvements in the number and style of the wines available in the future.
During my tasting, I had another Frascati that I liked very much. These were not wimpy wines. There were samples of the 2007 and 2008 vintages and I thought of them as a superior wine, with body and heft.
It is called “Luna Mater Frascati Superiore” and will be available here in the US by the middle of 2010. The 2007 vintage is a blend of 50% Malvasia di Candia, 10% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia del Lazio, 10% Greco, and 10% Bombino. Very carefully selected grapes from the higher slopes. Complex fermentation in three separate lots, with skin contact for part, and part added to already fermented must. The wine is brilliant yellow with golden highlights and has a bouquet of lemony apricot and honeydew melon with an intriguing minerality. It has a full and rich palate, with a fruity density and a very light sweetness with herbal notes. A finish of orange rind and lemony acidity. A very impressive wine
The Luna Mater 2008, has lots of lemon zest and apple notes, a hint of nuttiness and intense minerality. The palate has lovely freshness; it is slightly cleaner than the 2007. Orange jest and grapefruit finish and lots of lemony acidity.
Look for them. If you like seafood, fish, and white meats, then these are the wines for you. Laying down a few bottles of either of the Luna Mater vintages would be a fascinating experience.
To your health!
© November 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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