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by Debra C. Argen
An Intimate Evening with Burgundy at Everest
Everest, www.everestrestaurant.com, Chef/Proprietare J. Joho’s restaurant, a member of the prestigious Les Grandes Tables du Monde, as well as Relais & Chateaux and Traditions & Qualité, provided the setting for An Intimate Evening with Burgundy on June 21, 2004. The evening was an outstanding pairing between Chef J. Joho and the wines of the Burgundy region, which were part of the Vinexpo wine exhibition in Chicago.
Everest, a stylish restaurant on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange Building, provided a magical setting with dramatic skyline and spectacular sunset views, with sculpture by the Swiss artist, Ivo Soldini gracing each table.
The evening began with the world premiere of the Burgundy 2003 vintage tasting of white wines from La Chablisienne, Blasons de Bourgogne, Domaine Michel Laroche, Domaine de LaLande, Maison Louis Jadot, and Domaine Paul Pillot, and red wines from Maison Bouchard Père & Fils, Maison Albert Bichot, Maison Louis Jadot, Domaine Jacques Prieur, and Maison Antonin Rodet paired with passed canapés. Chef J. Joho’s Alsatian background was evidenced in the mushroom strudel and tiny caramelized onion tartlets that melted in my mouth, and were perfect companions to the wines.
Once seated, I was honored to dine with Amaury Devillard-Rodet of the Antonin Rodet vineyard, and Gabriel Picard of Michel Picard vineyard. We began with Les Preludes Everest, 3 hors d’oeuvres of Cauliflower Fondant with Osetra Caviar, Peeky Toe Crab Cocktail and Cucumber, and a Flan of Michigan Pea accompanied by a Crémant de Bourgogne, Bl. De Noirs, Cave de Bailly, Blasons de Bourgogne 2001. Our next course was a Leek and Potato Potage with Wellfleet Clams and Fine Herbs, presented yin/yang style that was half white, and half green, and absolutely delicious, especially paired with a Chablis Grand Cru “Bougrots”, Côte de Bouguerots 2002, and a Dom. W. Fèvre Montagny Premiere Cru 2002, Cave de Buxy, Blasons de Bourgogne. Line Caught Wild Salmon Soufflé au Chardonnay, delicate with a taste of the sea, was accompanied by a Pouilly-Fuissé 2002, Dom. Châtaigneraie Laborier, Bour. De Vigne en Verre and Meursault Premiere Cru “Les Charmes” 2002, Masion Bichot. Medallion of Veal Loin with Wild Michigan Morels, Cracked Corn and Asparagus followed, accompanied by a Chambolle-Musigny, 2001 Maison Michel Picard and a Mercurey “Château de Chamirey” 2002, Maison Antonin Rodet, both wines from my dining companions’ vineyards. An Assortment of American Cheeses was served with a Gevrey Chambertin “Vieilles Vignes” 2000 Maison J. Philippe Marchand and a Corton Pougets Grand Cru 1985 Maison Louis Jadot. Dessert was a Crispy Rhubarb and Strawberry Strudel with Fromage Blanc Glace, followed by Les Petits Fours and Café accompanied by Marc de Bourgogne, Maison Boisset.
Alas, the evening had come to an end. I shared the elevator ride with Chef Joho, now that the Burgundy evening had concluded, was on his way to his other restaurant, Brasserie Jo. This energetic chef also owns Brasserie Jo in Boston, as well as the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas, which I will definitely add to my growing “must-try” restaurant list.
Burgundy Region wine information may be obtained from The Burgundy Wine Council at www.vins-bourgogne.com.
Everest 440 South La Salle Street, 40th Floor Chicago, Illinois 60605 Telephone: 312-663-8920 www.everestrestaurant.com leye25@ad.com
©July/August 2004. All rights Reserved.
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