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By Barbara Penny Angelakis
Every year, at the height of the white truffle season, for which the Piedmont region in Italy is justly celebrated, a dinner featuring the highly coveted “white diamonds” i.e. white Alba truffles, is held in New York City. Few restaurants exhibit the well-worn elegance of a bygone aristocratic era more graciously then Barbetta. Located in two landmark buildings in the theater district’s restaurant row, Barbetta (321 West 46th Street) has been celebrated for the excellence of its cuisine since it opened its doors in 1906. A recent dinner in honor of Regione Piemonte’s coveted white truffles, and the equally famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines, confirmed once again that a meal at Barbetta’s cannot be beat for quality of food, ambience or service.
Never have I tasted lighter, more delicate Gnocchetti, in this case drenched in Piemontese Cheese and dusted with freshly shaved white truffles. For visual impact and downright decadence the Nido di Quaglia con Fonduta e Uova di Quaglia is the ne plus ultra. The nest was filled with creamy Fonduta from which sprigs of savories protruded and over which fresh white truffles were shaved by the truffle exporter brought to New York for the occasion of this annual affair. The nest rested on straw-like shredded deep fried vegetables that also cradled tiny hard-boiled quail eggs. Both dishes were accompanied by a full-bodied, Barbera d’ Alba “Preda” 2004, a Piemontese wine that was a perfect foil to the rich, flavorful Gnocchetti and the Fonduta filling of the Parmesan nest. The meat dish was Bue al Barolo con Polenta, or beef braised in Barolo wine with two forms of polenta, loose and crisp, and served with a seductive Barolo “Rocche” 2000. For desert, two carts replete with multiple choices were offered, with a Moscato d’ Asti “La Caudrina” 2006, a sweet, aromatic, slightly effervescent desert wine.
Present at the dinner were many dignitaries from the Ministry of Industry and Foreign Trade, Regione Piemonte, Provincia di Cuneo, New York Italian Government Tourist Board, Italian Trade Commission, and winemakers from the Alba area along with prominent media and major tour operators.
For more on Italian truffles, please see Alba Truffles, in the Gastronomy section.
© November 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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