Issue:
January
2012

Story & Photography by Manos Angelakis

Luxury in Costa Smeralda.

The northeastern coast of Sardinia is where most of the luxury hotels and resorts that dot the coves and countryside of this island playground can be found. The Costa Smeralda, i.e. Emerald Coast, was developed for luxury tourism in the mid-‘60s by Karim Aga Khan (his complete name was Shah Karīm al-Hussaynī, The Āgā Khān IV) as an exclusive resort area built according to an extremely detailed urban plan. Cala Di Volpe, Romazzino, and Hotel Pitrizza, form the nucleus of a luxury hotel group within the Starwood Luxury Collection, where guests can access la dolce vita in complete privacy. Celebrities flock to this region of emerald-hued waters and exquisite white sand beaches with private boats, docking at hotels that provide marina access, and they congregate in Porto Cervo for celebrations on a grand scale. Unfortunately, the Starwood properties closed earlier than the other luxury properties at the end of the season, and therefore we did not have a opportunity to visit them.

When the Riviera is starting to really get cold in September and October, the Costa Smeralda is not as crowded and offers a very comfortable climate. The Starwood properties are no longer the only exclusive luxury spots in the area. Other, smaller, and much more exclusive hotels have been developed, with exquisite restaurants, spas and other facilities.

We stopped at Hotel Capo d’Orso (Loc. Cala Capra, 07020 Palau OT, phone: 0789 702000 – 702108, fax: 0789 702009), a five-star 84-suite property, located at Cala Capra, set amidst olive, pine and juniper trees in perfect harmony with the environment. The hotel is surrounded by a private park and a flower-filled garden, and has private beaches and a private marina sheltered from the winds. The location is secluded, so it is ideal for a quiet or romantic time away from the hubbub of Porto Cervo. General Manager Luca Cagliero took time away from his busy schedule to show us around the property. Sun beds and hummocks are conveniently placed among trees, hidden in the bushes, and only rarely do you see your neighbors or a passersby. The Spa is absolutely beautiful with 10 treatment rooms and although it does cost extra, it didn't seem overly expensive. Inside and outside Thalasso pools are part of the Spa facilities that also include a Turkish bath.

Suites are very spacious and well equipped, with a big balcony accommodating two sun beds, a table and two chairs, and a magnificent sea view. The furniture in the suites is locally made and shows Sardinian decorative motifs, as do wall-murals and hand-embroidered decorative pillows. There are bathrobes and slippers and many of the bathrooms have Jacuzzi tubs and separate showers.

The food at Ill Paguro restaurant is excellent. Executive Chef Fernando Rossi uses the freshest possible ingredients from Sardinia’s sea, mountains, and gardens and the menu varies according to best produce availability. A gluten-free menu is available on request at the time a reservation is made. The printed menu is divided into Antipasti (appetizers), Primi Piatti (pasta and rice dishes), Secondi Piatti (main cooked courses that include grilled meat and fish selections), Dessert, and also has a nice list of Dessert Wines. The plating presentation is exceptional. As an antipasto, I had the lightly smoked sea bass carpaccio, with tuna and salmon over a farm-fresh salad topped with a dollop of fresh ricotta and salmon roe. My Primo Piatto was the saffron risotto, with mussels, and king prawns. I would have had the grilled swordfish as a main course but decided against it, considering that I had gained some pounds during the trip. The wine list is rather limited, but offers the best Sardinian wines available (see story in The Oenophile Blog) plus other Italian wines and a few international choices and the barman keeps at hand an excellent selection of grappas, brandies, and single malts. If you are lucky, the maître‘d might offer you a liqueur he home-makes from prickle-pears, a very thick, highly aromatic, unctuous shot that glides seductively down the throat. The multilingual staff is attentive but not intrusive.

The next stop was the Petra Segreta Resort & Spa, near the San Pantaleo village (Strada Buddeu C.P. 130, 07026 San Pantaleo Olbia, phone: +39 346 1521187 or 1521402, fax: +39 346 1787972).

A small property, currently 14 suites that will be expanded to 20 by next season, is hidden away in the Buddeo valley. The owners, Luigi Bergeretto – a five-diamond chef – and his wife Rossella Marchese, an architect with impeccable taste that personally supervises all construction and decorative touches in the property, live onsite to make sure that every guest has personal attention to be able to escape from the hectic pace of daily life. And, their attention to detail pays off. While most other 5-star properties were either closed or preparing to close at the end of the season, this small paradise was fully booked when we arrived!     

The main building overlooks the pool and the pine and olive tree forest where the suite complexes are located. It contains a sitting room with a large fireplace, a reading room, the reception, the bar, and the restaurant. Outdoor verandahs offer spectacular views and a chance to eat al fresco when the weather is warm.

In a separate building - next to the main building - is the Well-Being Center. It offers a number of treatments based on Ayurvedic principles and is supervised by Indian expert Dipu Kathait. His team of disciples ensures that all oriental treatments are performed according to the ancient techniques. Guests can chose between traditional aesthetic, facial, body, and hydrotherapeutic treatments and oriental Shiatsu, Ayurvedic, and Dhara treatments. Many of the products used in the treatments come from medicinal plants in the resort’s nature park.

There are other luxury properties in the area, along with some that call themselves luxury hotels and resorts but failed miserably to meet our admittedly strict luxury standards. So, to use an old Roman expression, Caveat Emptor; let the buyer beware.  

Website for Petra Segreta Resort & Spa: www.petrasegretaresort.com

Website for Capo d’Orso Hotel & Thalasso Spa:
www.delphina.it/sardegna/alberghi/capodorso/hotel-costa-smeralda.html

 

 

 

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