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By Barbara Penny Angelakis
 COLORS Restaurant
417 Lafayette Street
New York, NY 10003
212-777-8443
www.colors-nyc.com
Located in the historic and fashionable NOHO district at 417 Lafayette Street, just south of the Joseph Papp Public Theater and sandwiched in between other commercial entrances, there is a simple door with just the name COLORS stenciled on the transom.
Much has been written about COLORS and its unique premise: a co-op worker-owned restaurant started by survivors of the Windows-on-the-World, after the demise of that landmark restaurant, with more than 24 countries represented by its international staff of all shades and colors – hence the restaurant’s name. With so many different cuisine options to choose from, COLORS has chosen bits and pieces from all and offers the best, literally from the four corners of the earth: Asia, Europe, North American and South America. As worker-owners, staff is given the opportunity to suggest recipes and ingredients from their native lands, contributing to the global nature of the seasonally changing menu.
The international concept extends to the restaurants décor that features a large Global Peters Projection wall map on glass covering a good portion of one wall. Each continent is represented by a different color, and those colors are duplicated by the table linen. The simple wood tables present a more than sufficient base for the large white service plates that provides a neutral backdrop for the food to take center stage. The classic art deco wood paneled interior is  notable for the cast-iron columns strategically spaced throughout and the 1939 World’s Fair light fixtures with a globe-theme spaced along the length of the long narrow room.
From the moment you enter and are greeted warmly to the moment you leave, you are made to feel welcome and comfortable by the staff-owners who not only prepare your meal but serve it as well. While we were there to sample the brunch menu, we could not resist ordering Pisco Sours; it is one of the few restaurants in the city that offer this South American treat. Having first sampled this savory drink in Santiago, Chile and then again in Lima, Peru we were pleasantly surprised at the authentic preparation of the drink at COLORS (Peruvian style). Our host Sean Meade, one of the assistant managers, explained that initially the drink was made “by the book” and when served to a Peruvian aficionado, the barman was told it was unacceptably unauthentic. The offended party set up a training session to instruct in the proper construction of the  cocktail. We can attest to the success of the training and to the dedication of the staff to getting it right.
Presenting yet another interpretation of the Brunch experience, the restaurant offers an ala-carte style fare. While the Brunch menu is limited and does not include the ubiquitous Belinni, appetizer, or desert, it is nevertheless a worthy contender by nature of its unusual and distinctive food pairings and combinations. For instance, the Tahitian Spiced French Toast accompanied by a fruit-compote of sautéed Seasonal Berries and apples at $12. The thick slices of battered bread were so flavorful that to use the pot of Maple Syrup served with the dish would have been gilding the lily. The fruit gave texture to the bread and provided a tang to counter its sweet spiciness. And, for one of the most unusual and tasty egg dishes around there is the Colombian Eggs Benedict. Over a crunchy on the outside/soft on the inside Corn Arepa (cornmeal  cake, see recipe in Cook’s Corner section) is layered a bed of Spinach then sautéed mushrooms. Over that are placed two generous slices of Chorizo (spicy Spanish sausage) and a perfectly cooked Poached Egg all topped with a creamy, tangy Hollandaise sauce. All the different flavors and textures complimented and enhanced the others and made for a standout dish, also for $12. The Belgian Waffles with Caramelized Bananas was $9 and the traditional Two Eggs Any  Style with Home Fries and Toast is $10, to name a few of the selections. If you are a big eater or simply want to try something different, there is a selection of Tapas galore to whet your appetite. Prices range from $5 to $11 per small plate. The deserts are $7 each and we opted to try the Warm Spiced Doughnut filled with dulce de leche, raspberry dipping sauce and served with a cup of chocolate milk; a treat for kids of all ages. The Jamaican Brownie, our second choice, was a homemade brownie made with Jamaican rum and walnuts and served warm, topped with ice cream and chocolate and raspberry sauce.
I look forward to my next visit to COLORS for a Tapas tasting.
© June 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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