|
Story and photography by Barbara Penny Angelakis
Cliff at Cap
Cap Maison
Saint Lucia, West Indies
www.capmaison.com
Cliff at Cap is the exceptional restaurant at Saint Lucia’s first residential-style luxury boutique hotel Cap Maison. Located on the northwest coast overlooking the Caribbean Sea and just minutes from Rodney Bay, everything about Cap Maison oozes elegance, exclusivity, style and taste, so it is not surprising that the restaurant would bring a whole new cache to the gastronomic brilliance already existing on the island. The kitchen at Cap is overseen by Welsh born Executive Chef Craig Jones, a Saint Lucian Chef of the Year recipient, who serves an inspired French West Indian contemporary menu.
Chef Jones is responsible for one of the most extraordinary meals I have enjoyed in many a moon, and considering the high level of culinary excellence on Saint Lucia, that is saying a lot. Of course de gustibus et coloribus non est disputandum (there should be no quarrel over matters of taste and color) and what suites my taste buds may not be to everyone’s liking, but for those with similar food passions, read on.
Dinner at the Cliff at Cap, hosted by the charming General Manager Ross Stevenson began with an unusual amuse bouche of chilled lobster bouillon served in a simple white demitasse cup on a Japanese bamboo block. Ross explained that he is partial to the contrast of texture and design in tableware and feels it adds a touch of elegance to the open-air restaurant of multi-level wooden decks jutting out of the cliff over the sea - hence the name Cliff at Cap. Much of the meal was served in various sizes of simple white ware with touches of contrasting accessories when appropriate. Ross has worked tirelessly with Chef Jones to design not only a striking menu using fresh local produce, products, and seafood, such as butter poached Caribbean lobster with mascarpone or caramelized ripe plantain or the Peking duck I ordered, but also to create a presentation that enhances the dining experience. After all, they have to compete with unparalleled panoramic views of the sea and sky where the whispering of the surf and pounding of the waves makes a mesmerizing distraction to mealtime concentration.
The gala evening had started with a “best ever” frozen seasonal fruit margarita made with freshly squeezed juices of lime, orange, grapefruit and pineapple and served in the ubiquitous salt edged martini glass. Being aware that Cap Maison has a renowned walk-in wine cellar I was more focused on the pairing for dinner and just ordered the cocktail to be sociable. Imagine my delighted surprise when the margarita turned out to be so special… well special enough for me to momentarily forget the wine cellar and focus on making a good friend of our talented barman. I was pulled back to my senses by the Saint-Bris William Fevre 2005, an unusual Sauvignon from the Chablis district of Bourgogne, served with the bouillon and the appetizer dish that Ross called tapas but which I would classify as small plates. Whatever you call it, the dish was simply sublime.
The first of the three tapas consisted of large chunks of lobster meat over risotto infused with squid fish sauce. Next came a slice of grilled foie gras over a large  handmade mushroom filled ravioli, topped with sliced apple sticks. And finally, lamb sweetbreads over a bed of baby lentils. The wine was a terrific aid in tempering the richness of the dish but thoughtfully a cleanse-palate of Pina Colada frappe was served.
The main course was paired with Vistalba Corte A 2006, a rather heady oaked Argentina Malbec, but once again a good choice for the breast of roasted Peking duck that I had ordered. The duck was presented as a roulade wrapped in spinach leaves, halved and separated with a layer of shredded duck, served over creamed corn, fresh off the cob, and topped with a generous slice of grilled foie gras… one can never be too thin, too rich, or have too much foie gras as far as I am concerned. Dessert, pictured above, of fresh pineapple ravioli with pineapple garnish and raspberry coulis completed the feast. Satiated with good food, good conversation, and good wine we bade goodnight and melted into the sultry night. Thank you Ross and thank you Chef Jones.
© December 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
|
