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by Manos Angelakis
The French wine industry has finally decided that the “New World” wines, with their single variety vinification, taste stability, and moderate prices, are not just a passing trend but are here to stay and are a major threat to their income. The high annual price increases of AOC French wines have been driving more and more consumers in major markets into trying and buying wines from Australia, California, Chile, South Africa, to name but a few of the countries whose wine sales have dramatically risen in recent years at the expanse of French exports. As I mentioned in previous articles, the rigid AOC system is now hurting the French growers.
So, it has been no surprise when at a recent wine tasting of Chantovent wines from a producer founded in 1953 in Languedoc Roussillon, we were presented with 4 nice tasting French varietals at a US suggested retail price of under $9.00. Chantovent represents 11 cooperative cellars, vinifying the product of 2,500 wine growers that cultivate over 18,000 acres of vineyards. Some of these vineyards are amongst the oldest in the world, dating back to antiquity. The wines are classified as Vin de Pays and are all bottled in Bordeaux-style bottles that are shipped in both 750ml and magnum sizes.
At a press lunch held on October 9, 2003 at Eleven Madison Park -- one of the better NYC restaurants; we were presented with a 2002 Chardonnay and 2001
 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
The Chardonnay was served first. A deep straw-colored, lively, fresh wine that complemented the tastes of the appetizers and the first course. Vanilla, toast and pineapple on the nose; it is well balanced with a long finish. The fruit is pressed immediately after harvest and the fermentation is done in stainless steel vats. Though it is aged in new oak barrels, it doesn't have the heavy oakiness that is characteristic of many French whites. To be drunk now, well chilled.
The Merlot was served as a second wine, the Cabernet as third and the Shiraz followed.
 A grilled, dry-aged ribeye was served as the main course. The light charcoal taste from the grill, played very well with this young Merlot. It was a fresh tasting, deep red bottle with lots of flavor. Cherry and red berries on the nose with hints of vanilla. Smooth, structured tannins with a velvety finish. The charm is in the freshness of the wine; I don’t think it would stand well to aging. Drink now and enjoy.
The Cabernet Sauvignon was served at the same time, with the ribeye. A much more serious wine, full bodied with concentrated flavors of blackcurrants and woodland berries. Deep ruby in color, it had a hint of coffee, vanilla and cigar box on the nose. The tannins were firm and well structured. This bottle is very drinkable now but could stand some short aging, just a couple years, to round out the flavors.
The last sample was the Shiraz. This was a little too oaky for my taste with spice, pepper and truffles on both palate and nose. Hint of blackcurrants and cocoa. Deep red-violet color. The stronger than anticipated tannins make it a candidate for longer aging, perhaps 6 to 10 years for the tannins to smooth out and the oak to subside. Will go well with stronger tasting meats, like lamb and duck.
A warm Chocolate Soufflé cake with Vanilla Ice Cream was the desert and it really called for a demi-sec or sweet wine. It is unfortunate that Chantovent doesn’t produce this type of wine yet.
Congratulations to Star Industries, the importers of these wines. I think they have a winner here, tasty varietal wines at a logical price. And, of course, congratulations to Lionel Arnal, Chantovent’s winemaker and creator of these remarkable bottles.
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