Issue:
July
2008

LWBannerCassoulet

by Manos Angelakis,
recipe by Shari Alexander

Cassoulet, is a rich, hearty stew of various meats, beans, fats, and aromatic vegetables and herbs, all simmered in layers for three days then topped with a fine golden crust. Making a cassoulet is very serious business in Paris, where I remember the concierge of the building I was living in prohibiting tenant visits to her apartment on the days she was baking the cassoulet, least a draft would affect the even heat in her oven. 

While hundreds of variations exist, one of the principal French culinary societies has proclaimed that a true Cassoulet must consist of 30 percent pork sausage, mutton or goose, with the remaining ingredients being white haricot beans, pork rinds, stock and flavorings. The ingredients are precooked in stages, separately, then baked in layers in an earthenware pot known as a "cassole." The making of a Cassoulet can take days, and the list of ingredients can easily contain over 20 items. The result, of course, is a phenomenally flavorful meal, well worth the effort, if made properly.

I have asked Shari Alexander, editor of the Long Island Wine Gazette, for her recipe of Cassoulet. Her version borrows from the traditional Cassoulet in feeling, but is considerably less labor intensive. It is also less rich, using far less fat than the traditional versions. It does require numerous ingredients, but these are mostly the seasonings necessary to give it the depth of flavor customary to a Cassoulet. Indeed, unlike the original, this cassoulet-type of stew may be prepared in a very short time, then let to simmer until done. It will fill your home with tantalizing aromas and is the ideal accompaniment to a cold night by the fire with a glass or two of Cabernet Sauvignon and a crusty French bread to mop up the juices!

Ingredients

  • 1/2 pound dried white beans
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon walnut oil
  • 3 pounds lamb shoulder chops or lamb shanks
  • 1 pound Saucisson d’ ail (French garlic sausage) cut into 1/2-inch rounds
  • 4 onions, sliced
  • 1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into 1-inch wide chunks
  • 5 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 4 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1/2 teaspoon herbs de Provence
  • 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon pepper
  • 2 cups dry red wine
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • toasted bread crumbs & parsley for garnish

PREPARATION:
Rinse the beans well. Place them in a large pot of water. Bring the water to a boil, boil for 3 minutes, then shut off the heat, cover and let the beans sit for 1 hour. Drain the beans and rinse. This may be done the day before.

Cut the lamb into large pieces, 1 to 1-1/2 inches in size. Do not discard the bones.

In a large flameproof casserole or Dutch oven, heat the oils until very hot. Brown the lamb cubes and the bones, and then remove from the pan. Brown the sausages with the onion and fennel. Add the garlic to the pan towards the end, just long enough to cook through without browning.

Return the lamb and lamb bones to the pan and add the tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, herbs de Provence, nutmeg, salt, and pepper, wine and chicken stock. Stir in the beans. Bring to a boil, and then simmer on low, covered, 45 minutes. Uncover and simmer another 30 minutes, or until the beans are tender and the sauce thick.

Garnish with toasted bread crumbs & fresh parsley

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

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