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by Manos Angelakis.
The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino hosted a tasting in New York City with 50 producers participating, each showing 3 to 5 different versions and/or vintages of their products. The 2001 vintage and 2000 Reservas are already available in the US market, and the 2002 vintage will become available later in the spring. All are very good and most samples showed wines ready to drink.
Brunello is a dry, elegant wine that matches quite well with red meat, game, mushrooms and truffles. Most of the wines we tasted were, as I mentioned above, very good but a number of producers stood out during the tasting. They create deep ruby-red or garnet wines, soft but concentrated. In general the 2001 wines are almost ready to drink and will improve if cellared for 3 to 6 years. The 2002 vintage is ready to drink now and should be consumed young, within three years at most from bottling.
I will discuss the outstanding wines on an alphabetical basis. All were equally good and I would be happy with any of them on my table.
Castello Banfi: The 2001 Brunello is a deep ruby - almost opaque - wine, soft and aromatic and ready to drink now. There are layers of dried cherry, fresh forest berries, anise, cedar and toasted oak. Full-bodied and chewy, firm tannins and a long finish. One of the best Brunellos in the tasting. The other wine presented was the 2001 Summus; young “still in diapers” yet already impressive. A blend of 40% Sangiovese - the same grape used in Brunello - 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. Already showing impressive aromas of plums, black currants, leather and toffee with a silky texture.
Col d”Orcia: A number of wines on the table including the 2001 Brunello that is presently in the US market. Intense ruby hues with scarlet highlights. The nose is redolent of black forest berries, plum, leather and oaky vanilla. Still slightly tannic, but that promises a good aging potential. In need of a few more years in bottle. The 2002 Brunello was smoother; very similar in nose and body to 2001, but with a bit softer tannins. Also shown the 2002 Nearco, a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. An almost inky black wine with dark violet hues. Aromas of vanilla, mint, figs, and blackcurrant. Full-bodied with plums, dried cherries, vanilla, spice and violets on the palate. Long, slightly tannic finish. A young, fresh 2004 Banditella Rosso di Montalcino was, according to Count Francesco Marone Cinzano who attended the tasting, a preview of what the 2004 Brunello will be. This was a ready to drink bottle and, if indeed a preview, that Brunello should be outstanding. Another bottle shown was the 1999 Poggio Al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Reserva; the much awaited release of the vintage that was held for an additional year to give the wine a chance to mellow. Deep ruby red with garnet highlights; shy on the nose. Still fairly tannic and considerably astringent, it will benefit from long cellaring. Very reminiscent of many of the 2004 Bordeaux wines I tasted earlier in January (see The Oenophile Blog).
Tenuta La Poderina, was one of the other notable wines. Deep ruby-red with garnet shades, it is 100% Sangiovese aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak barrels, followed by 12 months in bottle before released for sale. The 2001 sample was rich, fruity, intensely aromatic with blackbery, cherry and cinnamon on the nose. A meat-eater’s wine, it is ready to drink now. The same producer also had a straw-colored Muscadelle which was very fruity and on the light side. A true summer wine.
Campogiovanni from Agricolla San Felice. Super ripe fruit with plum, blackberry, cassis, coffee and earth on the nose. Full-bodied and powerful, with silky tannins and a dense, yet refined finish. This is only the second time I’ve tasted this wine. I was impressed last year and, even though it was again a slosh-and-spit tasting, I was impressed this year as well. I will review this producer later in the year.
Finally Tenuta Greppone Mazzi. On the table a 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Reserva and lovely 2001 Brunello that is fresh and ready to drink now.
The beginning of the 21st century has come with excellent wines in Tuscany and most of Italy. Even with a rather difficult 2006 Harvest (see Final 2006 Harvest Report), the wines are getting to be better and better. Soft, aromatic, with good body and well structured tannins, these Brunellos are what wine lovers want on their tables and in their cellars.
To your Health!
© February 2007 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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