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Story and photography by Barbara Penny Angelakis
In our travels through Santa Catarina (see Enchanting Catarina in Destinations section) we found dedicated stewards of the land. Three impressive examples were at Ilha Do Papagaio (Parrots Island), Vida Sol E Mar Eco Resort & Beach Village. and Rio do Rastro Eco Resort. Each resort complex has a different prime objective, yet each has a working plan to replenish the earth and enhance the lives of the local community, be it man or beast… and at the same time offer luxury accommodation and first class food.
Ilha Do Papagaio or Parrot Island at Praia do Rosa
Renato Sehn purchased a small rocky island in a little bay just south of Florianópolis as a retreat where his extended family could come together to relax and enjoy each other’s company. During the years individual cabins were being built for family members, Renato was repopulating the rocky island with all manner of native trees and plants. Now brightly colored flowers cover the lush landscape and many species of birds have found a home and no, the island is not inhabited by Parrots… the name of the island was suggested by its shape [from the air] not  by its inhabitants. Speaking of inhabitants, prehistoric dwellers have left their mark in the rocks on Parrot Island and Renato is only too happy to share his knowledge of the prehistoric Rupestrian [art on the rocks] icons discovered.
As the years passed, Renato found himself spending more and more time on his beloved island, while his family’s needs changed and they were spending less and less time. So the secluded island was turned into a private resort, first for personal friends, and then for the most discerning of guests. The only ways to reach the island is by helicopter, or by a boat dispatched from Praia do Sonho (Dream Beach), and the landing on Parrot Island is literally on the beach. Access to the island is tightly controlled and privacy is insured. Renato’s passion for land restoration on Parrott Island extended to the as yet undeveloped hill directly opposite the island. In order to preserve the open water and pristine forest view from his beach and to insure that the hill remain in its natural state for future  generations, Renato purchased it as a safeguard against land speculators.
But least you think you are roughing it on Parrot Island, think again. Each cabin is beautifully decorated and tastefully appointed with handmade furniture and colorful hand-died fabrics. Flowers are everywhere and surprisingly so are all the electronic devices found in luxury hotels. To accommodate their international clientele, the staff is multi-lingual. And the kitchen… amazing gourmet dish upon dish is turned out under the watchful eye of Renato, a chef of some distinction himself. The restaurant overlooks the beach and while you feast on bounties from the sea and Renato’s bounty from the land, you can look out and  watch dolphin and Right Whales (in season) romping in the water.
Parrot Island is also a host member of The Paint a Future Project, the highly successful annual art program where a number of invited internationally acclaimed artists travel to the island to paint. The proceeds from the sale of the paintings are used to make dreams come true for poor children in the area. The foundation began back in 1980 when the well-known Dutch artist Hetty van der Linden determined to do something to help children help themselves, by using their paintings to tell their story. She began with a picture from a young child visualizing her Grandma’s dream for a home. The original tiny picture was incorporated into a larger painting by Hetty and today hangs in the lounge of Ilha Do Papagaio. (www.papagaio.com.br)
Vida Sol E Mar ECO Resort & Beach Village at Praia do Rosa
The Vida Sol E Mar is a vertical resort with villas discreetly tucked away in the luxuriant foliage covering the hillside leading up from Rosa Beach, a surfer’s heaven. Each villa has its own distinct personally and facilities; some are suites for couples with pool or hot tub for romantic tête-à-tête, some are arranged for families with full kitchen and several bedrooms leading off the great room, and some have complete suites on different levels with separate entrances so that they can be isolated from each other and rented to unrelated guests. Some villas have pools facing the spectacular beach while others are surrounded by trees, but regardless, each villa is beautifully decorated, has fashionable appointments, and is adorned with unique works of art.
Enrique Alfredo Litman, along with his wife Francesca, realized their dream of opening an inn at Rosa Beach some 15 years ago, and Vida Sol E Mar resort was born. Enrique is passionate about disturbing the land as little as possible while building his dream resort and true to eco principles, practices sustainable farming methods. All animal and vegetable products that are served in the restaurant are grown locally or on the property. I can attest to this fact as I left my villa to walk down one of the many paths to the beach and found myself staring into the soulful eyes of a cream-colored cow with horns. Pigs and chickens were fenced in just a short walk away and they all looked as healthy and well cared for as the property itself. Once past the cows, I found myself on the beautiful white sand beach that seemed to go on forever. The name Rosa does not refer to the color of the sand, or even the magnificent sunsets that tint the beach in rosy hues, but to the name of the local fisherman who offered his hospitality to surfers that were drawn to the beach in the 1970’s before there were facilities for visitors. I watched as Enrique’s son Armação, an award-wining surfing champion and teacher at the Rosa Surf School, began a lesson with a beginner. But soon the warm silken sand begged to be a blanket for me to wrap myself in, while the ocean’s sweet song lulled me into a childhood reverie.
Enrique and his family have dedicated themselves to creating a comfortable haven at Vida Sol E Mar but this is far from Enrique’s only passion. Through a partnership with Southern Right Whale Institute he voluntarily helped organize their Museum as an educational and historical institution; developed projects and special events that support the [whale’s] ecosystem; sponsored outstanding whale watching excursions for tourists yearning to experience these giants of the sea, but in a respectful and safe manner for both whale and watcher alike. Enrique remains committed to “making an effective contribution to the preservation of this paradise”. Although we were at the wrong time of the year to personally experience the majestic behemoths in their environment, Enrique still managed to provide us with a breathtaking ride; instead of a boat we were in a car, and instead of on the water it was over golden sand dunes that eventually led us to the museum. The glorious dunes created the illusion of disappearing into the sea, and just as Enrique seemed to be orchestrating our doom by driving directly into a dune, eureka... we were on another broad beach heading towards even larger dunes. (www.vidasolemar.com.br)
Rio do Rastro Eco Resort
Leaving behind the sparkling beach and tropical vegetation that follows the coast, we headed inland towards the Rio do Rastro Sierra range. The winding road passes through small villages and towns and snakes back and forth in a series of heart-stopping zigzags. The trip from sea level up the 1500 meter (4800 feet) high mountain is thrilling enough, but on the day we made the drive an unseasonal downpour accompanied by heavy winds preceded us, leaving behind damaged houses with roofs torn off and trees and debris scattered along the highway. The ride was exhilarating in the fading light to say the least, and by the time we arrived at the resort at the top of the mountain it was dark… the resort as well as the sky. It was also cold… much colder than usual for the time of the year, but we attributed that to the storm that had so recently past. Not to be deterred, the affable owner Ivan A. B. Cascaes, and his charming right-hand man (sic) Gabriella, greeted us with cheers for having made it up the mountain, candles so we could see, and delicious hot chocolate to drink. They warmly embraced us as much to warm us in the chilly night as to welcome us to the lodge.
Inside there was no electricity but the fireplace blazed with light and there were  candles flickering on every surface. While we got cozy around the fire and waited for the electricity to kick-in, our host Ivan switched from hot chocolate to wine. Our amazing driver Luiz Antonio Lievore and talented guide Andrey Alves, surprised us with their talents also as musicians. We later found out that Ivan was a member of a band that entertained at traditional evenings and so had many musical instruments at hand. Andrey selected a guitar and began to play and sing and Luis jumped in with a drum and an impassioned singing style. While our dinner was being prepared by candlelight, we drank wine and listed to Andrey and Luiz serenade us with tunes as diverse as Brazilian folk songs to Eric Clapton’s “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door”.
By morning all was well and we finally saw how beautiful the property was. A series of cabins built around a lake that is stocked with fish, and the surrounding meadow that was full of brilliantly colored flowers, their hues sharpened by the altitude. The accommodations were comfortable rooms to luxurious suites fitted with a Jacuzzi set by a large unobstructed window with a view, a fireplace and a porch. Since we were in the mountains and nights could be cool, the comfortable bed had a warming blanket which was turned on during the nightly turndown service so by the time we were ready for bed, it was warm and cozy. Ivan has created an eco retreat close to heaven. He is an extraordinary man; passionate about the land and its bounty, the staff that have come to be like family; and the gift of nature that he is privileged to a custodian of.
After a leisurely breakfast, Ivan who had been up for hours helping members of the community sort out after the storm, ushered us into a 4-wheel vehicle that  had seen better days, for a ride to the canyons. Normally this ride would have been done on horseback but the wind was still howling so we took the alternate spine-twisting ride literally up the side of a rock strewn mountain. Once at the top we gratefully disembarked and looked out at the canyons shrouded in mist. Ivan told us we could blow the mist away and as we stood blowing air and laughing, lo and behold our efforts were rewarded by the lifting of the fog and the sight of the mighty canyon before us. It is an awesome sight to stand before such splendor… winded or otherwise.
As we returned to the resort and another wonderful meal of locally grown seasonal animal and vegetable products - prepared this time with adequate light - I reflected on this special journey that had been so much more then an examination of resorts, food and sites. We were privileged to experience a world apart: one where people care for each other, are zealous keepers of the land and their traditions and generous with their music and their laughter. (www.riodorastro.com.br)
© June 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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