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by Manos Angelakis
At the highest levels of winemaking, all wines are now very, very good; many regardless of vintage. I taste thousands of wines each year; some are spectacular, many are very good, but the majority is rather indifferent, though still quite drinkable.
These are my personal favorites for 2007. The list is ranked by numerical rating, regardless of price.
1999 Domaine De La Romanee-Conti La Tâche. A grand wine, seductive, redolent of ripe red berry fruit, violets, and wild strawberries, with hints of musk and cigarbox on the nose. Magnificently soft, with plum, hazelnuts, and a touch of caramel and espresso notes on the palate. Perfectly balanced with a very long finish. Rated at 100 points. Can’t get any better than this.
A Napa Valley Meritage wine, Joseph Phelps 2004 Insignia. As far as I am concerned, this is the finest American wine released in 2007, and it can be compared with the very best wines from any wine producing area without apologies. An almost perfect rating of 99 points.
What I consider the third best red wine of the year comes from Chile. Montes 2004 Folly is the finest New World Syrah I tasted in 2007. When I first tasted it at the Apalta winery a year ago, I gave it a provisional 94 to 97 rating at the time, but in just a year it has developed to a real charmer. Rated a definitive 97 points.
S. A. Prüm, 1998 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein. This golden, elegant, low alcohol, high acidity, highly aromatic wine’s color is a visual indication of the treasure in the bottle. A noble Riesling wine that will enhance anyone’s table. Rated at 97 points.
Weingut Selbach-Oster, 2005 Zeltinger Schloßberg Beerenauslese. Aromas of honey, candied citrus and smoky botrytis. A palate of grapefruit jest, vanilla, marzipan and fresh juicy apple. Long, remarkable finish of honey, ginger and raisiny smoke. Rated at 97 points.
1982 Château Rieussec. This fabulous dessert treat has evolved into a rich colored wine, hued a burnished gold color, smooth and full of flavor. It had a fragrant nose of marmalade, lingonberries, lichee, and strawberries. A good level of botrytis gives a powerful palate with fine acidity, full of pineapple, butter, and dried apricots. It had an intense, honeyed finish. Rated at 97 points.
2003 Vistorta, by Conte Brandolini d’ Adda. From Venezia Giulia. Smooth, elegant, medium-bodied wine, soft with smooth deep cherry fruit nose enlivened by hints of plums, cigarbox, and spices. Very long, luscious blackberry finish. Has garnered Tre Biccheri from Gambero Rosso. Rated at 95 points.
Pedro Domecq, Venerable, a very rare Pedro Ximénez Sherry. Almost syrupy, inky, with ripe black figs, and dry dates on the mouth, this fortified wine comes from a 30-year-old solera. Absolutely yummy. Rated at 95 points.
Casa Lapostolle, 2004 Clos Apalta. 84% Merlot/Carmenère, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon. A lovely, silky wine from old vines. Deep ruby red with garnet highlights and purple shadows. It is fresh, with nice acidity. Very complex nose. Intense fruit aromas of blueberries and concentrated black forest fruit, espresso and toffee notes. The palate exhibits plum and toasty oak with nuances of dry figs. Well integrated tannins. It has a long, polished finish. A truly exceptional wine that will gain more complexity as it ages. Rated at 95 points.
1981 Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva from R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia. A blend of mostly Tempranillo, with some Granacha, Mazuelo and Graciano to improve balance and add color. Despite the age, this wine is still a baby. A very traditional Spanish Rioja, made to be cellared for a long time before it is ready to drink. It will remain at peak for an additional 10 to 15 years. The 1981 vintage was released in 2006, after 8 years in American oak and 16 years in bottle. Dark ruby color with red slightly brown highlights. Lightly herbal nose with sweet fruit. Chewy, savory, herby palate with a spicy finish. Rated at 94 points.
Fonseca 2003 Vintage Port. Inky purple colored. Perfumed berry aromas and wild flowers prevail, with hints of blackberries, caramel and passion fruit. Full bodied, very massive on the palate. Very long finish goes on for minutes. Although this wine can be enjoyed now, it is still in diapers; there is a compelling reason to let it reach maturity. The ’03 is a sublime, complete, and nearly perfect young Port. Rated at 94 points.
Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef. 2005 Berncasteler Doctor Trockenbeerenauslese. Deep gold color. Aromas of tropical fruit, ripe peaches, apricots and jasmine. Sweet palate with high acidity that creates a honeyed, long finish. An exceptional dessert wine from the world-famous Doctor vineyard. Rated at 94 points.
Piper Heidsieck, 1998 Vintage Brut. I like this Champagne and often use it as a standard for comparison when we do champagne tastings. It has fine bubbles for a gentle effervescence. Subtle floral notes of dried apricots, grapefruit, and fresh figs are intertwined with elegant touches of tobacco and leather, adding hints of nutmeg and mace to the long finish. Rated at 94 points.
Castello delle Regine, 2004 Merlot. A big wine, full bodied with velvety tannins. Black and red forest berries, coffee and toffee on the nose. Sour cherry and blackberry on the palate, with a long rather smoky finish. A definite meat-eater’s wine. A 2007 award of Tre Biccheri from Gambero Rosso. Rated at 93 points.
2002 Nearco, from Col d’ Orcia; a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. An almost inky black wine with dark violet hues. Aromas of vanilla, mint, figs, and blackcurrant. Full-bodied with plums, dried cherries, vanilla, spice and violets on the palate. Long, slightly tannic finish, should mellow with some more cellar time. Rated at 93 points.
Nicolas Feuillatte, 1997 Palmes d’ Or, Brut. This is the super-premium version of the Feuillatte Champagnes and comes in a black velvet sack that contains a distinctive, dimpled bottle. The Champagne is pale gold colored, with yellow highlights. Bone dry, it is crisp, bright, and complex, with a gentle mousse. A bit more yeasty than the nose would suggest, it is smooth and buttery with undertones of pear and sour apple. Works well alone or with desserts. It presents a well-structured palate. Rated at 93 points.
Bernard Magrez, owner of Château Pape Clément and other fine-wine producing properties in France, also owns vineyards in the Americas. La Bienvenida, in Argentina’s Mendoza region at the foothills of the Andes, creates an outstanding wine. The 2003 La Bienvenida, 100% Malbec magnums, opened during a recent event at a New York City restaurant that inaugurated their Argentinean menu, was a wonderful surprise. Rated at 93 points.
2004 Rudolf Müller Riesling Eiswein from Rheinhessen. It was slightly less sweet than the Prüm sample, slightly lighter in color, with a fruity acidity that cut through the richness of the paired food and worked well with ripe Bosc pears and Stilton. It is exceptionally good for the very low retail price. Rated at 93.
An outstanding wine from Chile’s Maule Valley is the 2004 Reserva de Caliboro Erasmo. Made by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Montalcino’s Col d’ Orcia, it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Red fruit, spice, and a touch of saddle leather and eucalyptus on firm but elegant tannins. Rated at 93 points.
Belle Vallée Cellars, 2002 Grand Cuvée Pinot Noir. From Oregon’s Willamette Valley, a blend of Pinot Noir grapes from different vineyards. On the nose, cassis and dark chocolate, black cherries and smoke, with hints of violets, lavender and licorice. In the mouth, it is multifaceted, vividly mineral, dense and chewy, but sleek and polished. Rated at 92 points.
Croft 2003 Vintage Port. Opaque, almost black color core with dark ruby on the rim. Creamy nose with masses of wild black fruits, black plums, pepper, and raisin jam with an almost exotic undertone. Full-bodied, medium-sweet and super velvety. Rated at 92 points.
Another wonderful Chilean wine from the Colchagua Valley, the 2004 Gran Araucano Cabernet Sauvignon. A beautifully opulent purple wine with black currant, red forest fruit, espresso, and a hint of cigarbox and eucalyptus on the nose. Firm tannins, very long finish. Still very young, it will develop when cellared into an even better wine. Exceptional value, considering the price. Rated at 91 points.
From Viñedos Orgánicos Emiliana, 2004 Coyam. Blend of 5 varietals, 37% Syrah, 34% Carmenère, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 2% Mourvèdre. Aged in small casks. Dark ruby with purple highlights. A complex, fruity wine with currants, black forest berries, saddle leather, and vanilla on the nose. Smoky, with plums, black cherries, and hints of minty chocolate and espresso on the palate. Long fruity finish. Rated at 91 points.
Ruffino’s Tenuta Greppone Mazzi, 1999 Brunello di Montalcino. A lusty red, 100% Sangiovese Grosso wine from handpicked grapes. It is massive, with fruity violet, black forest berries and herbal aromas, with hints of vanilla, cloves, and cedar. Sweet tannins surround a fruit dominated core with a light touch of chocolate. Rated at 91 points.
Canella’s Prosecco di Conegliano, a light-bodied, non-vintage, fresh, crisp, dry, frizzante sparkler that reveals notes of white flowers, almonds, and honeyed lime in its luscious nose. At under $15 suggested retail, it is a delicious summer aperitif or to accompany light courses. Rated at 91 points
© January 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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