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Story by Barbara Penny Angelakis
Photography by Manos Angelakis
Ben & Jack’s Steak House
219 East 44th Street
New York, NY 10017
212.682.5678
www.benandjackssteakhouse.com
In these pages, we have reviewed many of the new group of steakhouses opened by various alumni of Peter Luger, the famous Brooklyn restaurant known for its simple style of serving the highest quality meat, properly cooked to order, in a comfortable well-managed environment. Ben & Jack’s Steak House is a welcome addition to this growing list and their food represents the best of the lot so far reviewed.
The décor is typical saloon style steakhouse with dim lighting and muted colors. The reception area enters into a slightly worn dining hall that seems to extend a warm welcome in a casual environment of large white clothed tables, comfortable overstuffed chairs, and subtle paintings on the wall. A small bar against the back wall and wooden screen partitions with etched glass panels separates this room from the adjoining dinning area with its mirror covered, wood paneled walls. The main decorating feature in this inner area is a huge raging golden bull sculpture at the far end of the room making a bold statement that this indeed is a steak house to be reckoned with. The waiters are traditionally dressed in white shirt, black pants, and bow tie with a white mid-calf apron for holding on to boiling-hot serving dishes. But enough about look… lets get to substance.
First test of the evening was ordering a Bloody Mary, not too spicy and heavy on the bloody. This was one of the best I have ever tasted… a little, but not too spicy, rich good quality tomato juice sufficient to taste instead of just juice flavored ice and premixed spices that so often pass for this drink, and just the right amount of Vodka to add a kick without overwhelming an empty stomach… just as I ordered. Our waiter Emil was definitely listening so we turned to him for advice on ordering.
The wine list was extensive, offering full sized bottles, very good California reds, a few whites, and a smattering of Italian and French Bottles. There was only one Chilean red, a Montes Alfa, which was, surprisingly, very modestly priced. There were numerous California Magnums and a few French. Manos decided on a glass of California Merlot.
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Emil pointed out a few of the signature offerings. The menu was not extensive but covered all the basics, a Porterhouse Steak for 2, 3 or 4, Filet Mignon, New York Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Prime Rib, and Lamb Chops. Chilean Sea Bass, Norwegian Wild Caught Salmon, Yellow Fin Tuna, and 4-pound Lobster cooked as you like it, complete the offerings from the sea. The obligatory potatoes are prepared 4 different ways and the range of vegetables include creamed spinach, asparagus, broccoli, onions steamed or fried, peas and onions, and sautéed mushrooms. Emil calmed our concerns regarding ordering the Porterhouse by assuring us that the New York strip side could be grilled black & blue, as Manos likes it, and the filet mignon side could be grilled longer for the medium rare preparation that I prefer.
But first, what to order from the extensive appetizer and salad offerings; Little Neck Clams for sure and the de rigueur Caesar Salad… here Emil stopped us to point out Ben & Jack’s signature salad for 2. Happily, we decided to try this unusual combination of plump colossal shrimp, onions, tomato, and thick Canadian bacon, all chopped together and dressed with the special Ben & Jack’s steak sauce. This original salad was absolutely wonderful, and practically a meal by itself. The clams were also first rate, plump, meaty, fresh from the sea, and expertly shucked. Sufficient time was given between courses and in general, all the wait staff was professional, efficient, and non-intrusive. When the Porterhouse finally arrived sizzling to our table, it was grilled exactly as ordered and as Emil had promised. This dry-aged steak was one of the best we have ever had and when we inquired as to their meet purveyor, we were told it came from the highest quality Master Purveyors (see Hunts Point Market Tent Party in the Events Segment) a source we know and admire. The sides we ordered of Creamed Spinach and German Potatoes (home fries) were good for me but the potatoes were a little too crisp for Manos’ liking.
For desert, we selected the apple strudel “mit schlag” with a side of chocolate chip and macadamia nut ice creams and a badly needed digestif of coffee. The strudel had an ample supply of large plump raisins which I do not like in strudel, but Manos was in strudel heaven, and we both went ballistic over the ice cream especially with the double rich, heavily whipped, slightly sweetened, Viennese whipped cream called schlag (short for schlagobers). Espresso coffee was properly made with the correct amount of creama, ending a meal of distinction.
© November 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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