|
By Barbara Penny Angelakis
Barbetta Restaurant
321 West 46th Street
New York City, NY 10036
212.246.9171
www.barbettarestaurant.com
White Diamonds Of Piemonte Reprised…
Once again the season is upon us, and we find ourselves anticipating the arrival of the white diamonds of Piemonte (see Alba Truffles in the Gastronomy Section) and the annual dinner in celebration of their arrival. The celebratory event is held at the landmark restaurant Barbetta and hosted by the Director of the Italian Government Tourist Board North America, Riccardo Strano, and the President of the Province of Cuneo Chamber of Commerce, Ferruccio Dardanello. Also in attendance was the Director of Centro Estero Alpi del Mare – Cuneo, Giacinto Chiri.
Barbetta is not only the oldest family-run restaurant in New York City – 2006 marked their 100th anniversary – but it has maintained a style and elegance rarely seen outside of haute dining salons in Europe. Barbetta is located at 321 West 46th Street, right in the heart of the Theatre District’s restaurant row. The landmark townhouses it occupies were built by the Astor family in 1874 and 1881, but since 1906 have housed the restaurant. Barbetta’s was originally founded by Sebastiano Maioglio, and is now owned and operated by Laura Maioglio, Sebastiano’s American born daughter whose roots were - and still are - firmly anchored in the family’s native Piemonte.
Paying homage to her ancestral origins, Ms. Maioglio designed the restaurant’s interior in 1962 with Piemontese antiques in the Rococo style seen in the palaces and stately homes of Piemonte. Piemonte, is the northwestern region of Italy, famous as the seat of the House of Savoy, Italy’s ruling family from unification until World War II, when they abandoned Italy to the Fascists. (see Destinations Piemonte & Torino) In fact, the great chandelier that dominates the ceiling in the main dining room is an 18th century antique from a palazzo in Torino which belonged to the Savoys. Ms. Maioglio is also responsible for the creation of an open-air garden in 1963, a time when formal dining al fresco was a “European thing” and rare in Manhattan. This innovation before its time made the lovely fragrant garden a sought after location for dining and summer party events, and is still a much coveted setting.
The number and scope of awards won over the years by Barbetta for both its groundbreaking cuisine and the introduction of Piemonte wines, could fill a book. Suffice it to say that Ms. Maioglio was the first to introduce the cuisine of Piemonte - so different from the long popular southern Italian food - into the United States. She was also responsible for introducing the Piemonte white truffle and Grignolino and Barbera wines, initially produced from vineyards in Fubine Monferrato, her ancestral home. In addition, Barbetta introduced Barbaresco and Ghemme wines from Piemonte to American wine lovers in the early 1970s, and the rest of course is history. Currently Barbetta carries over 1,700 different labels, all from top Piemontese producers, with verticals and rare vintages dating back to 1961.
Least this review turn out to be an ode to Barbetta, lets get back on track to the white truffle dinner Ms. Maioglio designed to celebrate the Trifola (truffle in Piemontese dialect). I doubt that I can describe the dinner any better then I did  in last year’s review, and so to quote myself:
“Never have I tasted lighter, more delicate Gnocchetti, in this case drenched in Piemontese Cheese and dusted with freshly shaved white truffles.” This year, if possible, the Gnocchetti were even better. They actually melted in my mouth, they were so light and fluffy with shaved truffles generously covering the tiny dumplings with abandon. “For visual impact and downright decadence the Nido di Quaglia con Fonduta e Uova di Quaglia is the ne plus ultra. The nest was filled with creamy Fonduta from which sprigs of savories protruded and over which fresh white truffles were shaved by the truffle exporter brought to New York for the occasion of this annual affair. The nest rested on straw-like shredded deep fried vegetables that also cradled tiny hard-boiled quail eggs.” This year the plates were brought to table with the truffles already dispersed, leaving Mr. Chiri, the truffle master, to enjoy his meal like the rest of us. Both  dishes were accompanied by a Barbera d’ Alba “Elena” Riserva 2006, perhaps a little too bold for the delicate Gnocchetti but perfect for the rich Fonduta filling of the Parmesan nest. As last year, the meat dish was Bue al Barolo con Polenta, or beef braised in Barolo wine with two forms of polenta, loose and crisp, and served with a seductive Barolo “Rocche” Riserva 1999, a hearty wine that could have benefited from decanting and a bit more airing, in order to lose its pungent nose. For desert, a selection from two carts replete with delectable choices were offered, and were accompanied by Moscato d’ Asti “Solatio” 2007, a sweet, golden, aromatic, slightly effervescent desert wine.
Dinner this year was even more special because sadly the white truffle is growing scarcer and due to its delicate nature, even more costly to import. The Piemontese white truffle grows naturally nowhere else in the world and as yet there is no way to cultivate this pungent member of the mushroom family. The growing season is barely three months long – September through December - and even when handled expertly, truffles are extremely perishable, having no more then a 10 day shelf life. As Ms. Maioglio told me, they already exceed the price per kilo of Beluga Caviar which also is balancing on the edge of extinction. So a word to the wise… plan accordingly and experience this rare delicacy while it is still here to enjoy.
© December 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
|
