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Story by Marian Betancourt
Attention Foodies: Baltimore is Not Just a City for Crabs
Baltimore, once known as the place to go for fresh crabs, can now compete with any city for the attention of serious foodies. Not that you should ignore the abundance of the Chesapeake Bay’s crabs but they are certainly not the only star on the city’s menu. A few days of sampling during the city’s annual Restaurant Week proved there are wonderful ethnic restaurants as well as hip and glamorous ones in Baltimore’s neighborhoods.
 Ixia, an example of the latter, has a chic and eclectic interior created by a wild child of a designer. Located on North Charles Street in the Mount Vernon neighborhood, it is an elegant flea market of décor with stuffed chairs, breakfronts and mirrors. Sea blue walls, gauzy drapes, and beaded chandeliers are a backdrop for smart white enameled tables and comfortable white leather chairs in the dining room. Tall vases filled with flowers are perfectly placed among the antiques. But it’s not only  about the look! Try the Queen Bee, a new vodka cocktail created by bartender Brendan Dorr with elderflower, Ouzo (Greek liqueur) a bit of honey and grapefruit. It won the top American prize in the 2008 Cocktail World Cup. Executive Chef Kevin Miller is a handsome guy much sought after by the television food media for his eclectic creations such as a small plate of ricotta gnocchi with vine tomatoes and basil with roasted garlic. A simple pan-roasted chicken entrée with red bliss potatoes, charred tomatoes, braised greens and pan jus, was a delicious blend of flavors.
La Tavola in Little Italy near the inner harbor features authentic and delicious handmade pasta and home-brewed Limoncello (the best I’ve tasted). The irrepressible Venetian chef, Carlo Vignotto, a slight, dark-haired gentleman, is so passionate about cooking, his animated conversation may remind you of Roberto Benigni in the movie, “Life is Beautiful.” Vignotto studied with master chefs in Italy and uses only the freshest ingredients and local ones when they are available. Agnolotti al pomodoro, the fresh ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach served in a tomato sauce, is simple and elegant. Skewers of shrimp are charbroiled and served over grilled polenta and drizzled with an aged balsamic reduction. The saltimbocca a la Romana, thinly sliced veal topped with prosciutto and sautéed in a delectable sage white wine sauce is flavor heaven.
 In the Harbor East area Lebanese Taverna serves Middle Eastern fare with an accent on savory mezza dishes such as fragrant and tangy tabouleh, the traditional parsley salad of bulghar, diced tomatoes, onions, lemon, olive oil and fresh mint. A mixed grill entrée of tender cubes of marinated lamb, chicken and Kofta skewered with mushrooms, tomatoes, onions and green pepper is served with rice. Don’t leave without trying the traditional baklawa for dessert. This phyllo dough layered with ground pistachios was full of flavor and not overly sweet as is often the case. And should you want to learn how to cook Lebanese dishes, ask about the cooking classes. This brand new location is part of a mid-Atlantic chain started by Tanios Abi-Najm who escaped with his family from the 1976 civil war in Lebanon.
In the Charles Village area, inside the Baltimore Museum of Art (which, by the way, has the largest Matisse collection in the world) is Gertrude’s. Chef John Shields , a Baltimore native, named the restaurant for his grandmother Gertrude Cleary who taught him to cook. Shields, who has written cookbooks and hosted television cooking shows adds several layers of sophistication to traditional coastal cooking. A good way to begin a Sunday brunch here is with some tangy and succulent Revel Bay oysters on the half shell. Single fry oysters, are served on an English muffin topped with poached Tilghman Island eggs, and fresh tomato. A classic eastern shore crab cake was made with Clayton’s Cambridge Crab. Blackened rainbow trout was served with a sweet chile glaze and free-range scrambled eggs. This repast was served on the patio in the sculpture garden under a white tent on a glorious blue sky day. In the near distance was Rodin’s statue of Balzac. After such a pleasant and flavorful meal, it was time to go inside the art museum and savor some art, especially those Matisses.
 Off the beaten path is a former 1880s sailor’s brothel reincarnated as the hip and trendy Inn at 2920 Elliott Street, a boutique bed and breakfast operated by Warren Munroe and David Rohrbaugh in downtown Baltimore. The once tiny rooms have been turned into five comfortable suites in a cozy mix of old and new such as the Bordellos Suite and The Room at the Edge of the World. This urban bed and bath is a terrific place for brunch, even if you don’t spend the night. In a bright charming dining room on the second floor you can try Chef Roxanne Levis’ watermelon tequila soup served with a warm raisin scone. (It is made with heavy cream to create the rich texture.) Next, try Eggs Benedict a la Chesapeake with “2920” country potatoes, a cinnamon sticky bun and a cup of Zeke’s Charm City blend coffee or tea.
 After these exciting culinary experiences, you cannot leave Baltimore without getting down and dirty with a traditional crab feast at Obrycki’s at 1727 E. Pratt Street, an institution in Fells Point since 1944. A pile of steamed crabs will be dumped on a table covered with heavy brown paper. You will receive a mallet with which to smash open the crustaceans and pick them apart with your fingers. Wash them down with cold beer. (If you are a novice, the staff will give you some instruction.) If you would rather have your crabs already prepared and on a plate, there’s plenty to choose from crab cakes to crab imperial.
There is one more treat before you leave Baltimore. Stop in a grocery store or supermarket and pick up a box of Berger cookies. These round vanilla and chocolate cake-biscuit topped with dark chocolate icing were invented here in 1835 by German immigrants George and Henry Berger and are to die for!
© December 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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