By Joel Levin
New Jersey Newspaper Group

 

Where there’s smoke, there’s more than fire:
Ardbeg’s sensational new Scotch bottling

The Ardbeg distillery’s “Rollercoaster” is nothing short of revolutionary, a departure from the norm of such magnitude that it can wake up and shake up the Scotch-distilling and Scotch-drinking culture from their centuries-old slumber.

Just a glance at the label telegraphs a rebel attitude.  The very non-traditional name is a big clue, as are the modern graphics and the bar graph of the blend’s components on the back label.  Yup, these bad boys from out-west Scotland are aimin’ to shake up the establishment.

The limited bottling blends ten smoky Islay vintages from 1997 to 2006 with no year contributing more than 15 percent.  The workers’ assignment is to juggle an assortment of single malts that have been sleeping in used bourbon and sherry casks for up to 16 years and formulate them into a signature celebratory bottle.  It must have been a dream gig for the blenders who were forced to go through endless permutations of proportions.  We thank them for their sacrifice.

The richness, the palpable heavy silk texture, and the concentrated flavors redefine the palate-stimulating adventures that Scotch can achieve.  Rollercoaster is a T-R-I-P in the way it treats olfactory and taste receptors to new experiences.

This writer is almost embarrassed to claim a fondness for the nearly 115-proof whiskey because it is explosively unsubtle, a velvet hammer wielded by a leather work glove.  It’s the spirits analogue of highly-extracted New World-style cabernet, a quaff that nature wired us to enjoy, and therefore almost beneath the dignity of proper snobs.  But a confession:  we would gladly surrender our membership in the Snob Club for a night with this Rollercoaster.  Farewell Riviera; hello Coney Island!

The blend of ten single malts from four casks is like liquid manna.  It’s whatever you want it to be at any moment.  And if you wait another minute, another character trait emerges.  The Rollercoaster name does not refer to the workout that this spirit gives your mouth, but it’s not an inappropriate word to describe its whirling and ever-evolving flavor wheel.

First on the nose is a meaty smokiness, but with little of the off-putting acridity and iodine notes exhibited by some Scotches.  Then comes the sweet aroma of tannery chemicals and new leather.  Dried eucalyptus notes present themselves also.

On the palate, taste burnt sugar, seawater, and molasses mint taffy.  Way in back of the throat is a weak hint of pepper and basil.  The 53.9 percent alcohol content yields a heat that accentuates the pepperiness, but a real man knows to tame the fire with a splash of cold water.  That’s actually a requirement because for full enjoyment, one must lose the tongue-numbing anesthesia.

The overriding characteristic is a heavy mouth feel like that of a thickened soup.  Is this a food-friendly dram?  Doesn’t have to be, because on its own it’s a meal in a glass.  It finishes dry and steely and stays with you for a good ten minutes. That’s a very good 10 minutes.

We tasted Rollercoaster at Whisky Guild’s March Classic tasting in New Jersey, a mere couple of weeks after its premier.  At this event featuring more than 200 whiskies, we heard a few comments like “I’ll never drink Islay; it’s not Scotch,” but the smokophobics were outnumbered  by the brand’s groupies who constituted a never-ending queue of the curious.

Be aware that there’s some confusion about how and when we Yankees can get hold of Rollercoaster.  Originally available only to “Committee” members (Ardbeg’s fan club) through phone or Web order, rumors have it that 250 cases will land in the U.S. at around $75 per bottle.  Check your local wine shop or ardbeg.com.

 

 

 

© April 2010 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.

 

Issue:
January
2012