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by Kostas Veloudakis
“The root of all pleasures is the satisfaction of the stomach”
Epicouros 341 - 270 BC
Much is being said and many articles have appeared recently on the, so-called, Mediterranean diet or Mediterranean Cuisine. The main point of attraction, of course, is the pure olive oil used almost exclusively in the preparation of the foods and salads. Cardiologists seem to share the enthusiasm for this manner of cooking due to this abundance of olive oil, considered extremely beneficial for the heart. It makes one wonder how the ancient Greek cuisine, which is an extension of the culture and civilization of this country, remained almost in obscurity for so many centuries.
Thanks to the love of his heritage, restaurant entrepreneur John Adamis conducted a research in the major museums and libraries of the world for two years, aided by his wife and a team of dedicated associates and came up with what is today the only authentic ancient Greek cuisine anywhere. Now one can taste again what this cuisine was treating the world with, almost 2500 years ago.
Situated appropriately in an old residential area of Athens, Greece, near the beginning of the road to Corinth and just off the South theater district, the first Archaion Gefsis (Ancient tastes), the new “ancient” restaurant opens its doors every evening to those who dare venture beyond the Italian carbonara, the Chinese Chow Fun or the Moussaka -- many having the impression (wrong) that Moussaka is a Greek specialty. The restaurant boasts several rooms and quite a spacious garden. At the door waiters wearing togas (as opposed to tunics worn by the ancient Greeks) greet the patrons; there is only one anaklindro, a type of elevated couch on which the ancient Greeks used to recline on and enjoy their symposia (meals/banquets); but some details have to be sacrificed to the cause of practicality. Once over the ambiance difference to the other “ethnic” establishments, guest are guided gently and expertly by the knowledgeable waiters through a menu which does not contain many familiar ingredients but promises to make the evening quite unique.
 Coming to the main attraction, which is the food, I must admit that it will be a terrible letdown to many a teenager expecting “ready made” fast-food dishes. I would go even further and say that visitors to Greece will also be disappointed to find out that moussaka and gyros (donner kebab) were not originally Greek but introduced by Ottoman rulers several centuries ago. On the other hand, guests will be impressed and delighted by what can be achieved with ingredients such as figs, nuts, honey, chickpeas and olives. Fish and game were also favorites of the ancient Greeks. Having made this restaurant a standard stop for visiting friends, it has now become a habit for my wife and myself.
Some of our more favorite dishes that we recommend to our friends are:
The Salad section: The Thalassaea (sea food) is tops. It contains spinach, fresh onions, capers, octopus tentacles, shrimp, mussels and squid -- a wonderful combination, if you are used to eating these ingredients. For a lighter and greener choice the “Oraea” is safe as a choice since it consists of lettuce, cucumber, pears and apples with plums, raisins and fragrant spearmint.
Starters: I have a habit of differentiating my choice between starters and salads i.e. if I choose a green salad then my starter will contain meat or fish and vice versa. Faithful to this habit I strongly suggest chickpeas with beets and garlic or black creased olives with goat cheese. For a more “solid” starter, the smoked eel with asparagus, coriander and oregano is an excellent dish.
Main course: Here I usually leave our guests to choose from the large assortment, with very little intervention, as what you eat starts first with your imagination. Our favorites, depending on whether we prefer fish or meat that evening are: Skewers of pork and fillet of veal in dark sauce with pea puree and fried bread dice (croutons), or steamed sea bass with vegetables and fresh and dry coriander, cumin, clear onions and other spices.
To close: There is a variety of deserts, all unique in the sense that they do not conform to any modern “sweet” except for Kourkouti, a flour paste crêpe stuffed with cheese and covered with Greek honey and sesame. This is one of the original ancient dishes that has survived through the ages and is still popular by Athenian children of all ages.
When in the mood, there is also an excellent fish soup and as dessert a platter of fresh fruit. The wine is all locally produced, carefully selected, and comes in dry or demi-sec varieties, red or white. The difference from the way the ancient Greeks served their wines is that it now comes full strength, while the ancients always watered theirs down. As a matter of fact, it was considered uncouth to drink undiluted wine.
Dining at the Archaion Gefsis several days ago we had a very pleasant surprise, John Adamis, the owner, told us that very soon our American friends who live in New York City or who are visiting there will have the opportunity to taste all these strange but uniquely pleasant dishes as they are in process of opening a restaurant in this Metropolis.
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