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Story and Photography by Susan McKee
New Mexico was once New Spain
Santa Fe seems too much like an historical Disneyland... Taos is too remote... If you want to experience the best of New Mexico, head to Albuquerque. This city on Historic Route 66 adds Anglos into a mix of Pueblo Indian and Spanish culture along with a heady dose of America's well-known infatuation with automobiles.
Albuquerque presents a picture of an America with a Spanish accent. Founded in 1706 and named for the viceroy of New Spain (who was also the Duke of Albuquerque), the city nestled in the Rio Grande Valley at the foot of the Sandia Mountains has attracted travelers for centuries. The mix of cultures in Albuquerque draws me back for frequent visits – and always reminds me that Anglos are the newcomers in this region of America -- part of the Spanish colonial empire for centuries and home to native tribes for eons before that.
The Pueblo Indians living in the region when the Spanish first arrived in 1598 weren't exactly welcoming. Don Juan de Oñate, governor and captain general of the Spanish Kingdom of New Mexico, skirted native-held lands and established his capital, Santa Fe, well to the north.
The bloody Pueblo Revolt of 1680 drove the Spanish out of New Mexico for a time, but European diseases and relentless warfare eventually took their toll. As the 18th century arrived, the newly appointed governor, Diego de Vargas, assembled an army and retook the region.
His successor, Francisco Cuervo y Valdés, created the new town of Albuquerque, centering it on an estancia (ranch) located in the area that's now the city's Historic Old Town district. (New Mexico didn't achieve statehood until 1912.)
My favorite bed-and-breakfast neatly summarizes the area's history. Los Poblanos is located on a Spanish land grant from the 18th century in an area known to be settled as early as the 14th century by the Anasazi, the "ancient ones" who are considered the ancestors of the Pueblo Indians.
In the 19th century, much of the land was farmed by Mexicans who came from the State of Puebla – hence its name, Los Poblanos. The area was bought in the 1930s by two Midwestern transplants and turned into a showcase southwestern residence. Then, in the 1990s, two families from the Pacific Northwest rescued it from certain destruction as suburban sprawl threatened.
Now Los Poblanos is a bed-and-breakfast inn that's listed on the both the New Mexico and National Registers of Historic Places with an astonishing collection of regional art.
It's not far from the Casa Rondeña Winery, which is open for tastings seven  days a week. Yet, Los Poblanos is just a five-minute drive from Old Town.
On the northern edge of Old Town is one of my favorite restaurants, Seasons Rotisserie and Grill. On my last visit, I sampled the house-made artichoke ravioli while my husband relished the grilled New York strip (I still think it’s because of the black truffle butter on the roasted garlic mashed potatoes). For dessert: what else but strawberry sorbet?
Be sure to stop in the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, located in Old Town – it'll tell you everything you need to know about the history of Albuquerque.
Old Town itself is a browser's delight. There are the usual silver jewelry stores and souvenir stalls, but my favorite quirky shop is Saints & Martyrs. Located in (what else?) an old chapel, it sells books, medals, pictures and statues of every Christian saint or martyr you've ever heard about -- and some you haven't.
On the southern edge of Old Town is Historic Route 66. That's how I came to Albuquerque the first time, many years ago, driving from Chicago to Los Angeles. You can still see some of the classic motels and diners from the years when this was a busy U.S. highway. The "Pueblo Deco" architecture along the way continues to attract tourists and photographers. (Don't miss the defunct KiMo movie theater downtown!)
To learn more about Albuquerque, check out the Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau.
© August 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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