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by N. Ross, edited by Manos Angelakis.
 Four days after I left the Far East, I found myself in East Africa at the unparalleled Serengeti plains, a place of great beauty -- especially as the sun sets like a huge red ball slowly dipping at the edge of the world -- the habitat of many wildlife species including lions, leopards, elephants and cheetahs, to name but a few. I happened to be there during the annual migration of giant herds of wildebeest and the accompanying feeding frenzy of the predators; proof, once more, that survival of the fittest is nature’s main law.
All luxury hospitality groups will pick you up at the airport and take care of your transfers. However, I decided to try some couleur local so I rented my own car and driver to transport me to my destination. Off I went with Ali, a half-Indian, half-African driver and his twelve year old Toyota, a used car probably rescued from a Japanese junkyard, for the rate of US$55.00 a day. Ali El-Muslim, was a fast driver whose hand was glued to the horn while passing busses, trucks, cars, bicycles, women taking their goods to market in baskets or other containers balanced on top of their heads, street vendors, carts, goats, dogs and chickens. As he jetted at top speed through the endless potholes, there were hundreds of near misses; but, miraculously, he never hit anything. His English was rudimentary and he called all foreigners, male or female, “sir”. But he was an excellent driver, ebullient and eager to please. He delivered me safe and sound at my first camp -- an extraordinary achievement, and one that proves that fervent prayer will preserve you from harm, even in the depths of Africa.
 East Africa is famous for prime game viewing. Here, Serena Hotels is one group that maintains numerous luxury lodges and tented safari camps in Kenya and Tanzania. These lodges have been oriented to capture stunning vistas of the African landscape, all in spectacular locations. The Kirawara Camp of Western Serengeti is a luxury gem featuring Victorian decor, inspired by the 19th century British explorers. Even though the century and location are wrong, I half-expected to be greeted one day with a “Dr. Ross, I presume!”. The staff was accommodating, dedicating themselves to fulfill our needs with a minimum of fussing.
At the Amboseli Lodge, in Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, colonial-style huts are spread all over the reserve. The amenities are modern and the staff tries their best to make you happy, but the food could be better. The view of Kilimanjaro from the pool is simply spectacular.
Another luxury camp is in Masai Mara Game Reserve, the Governor’s Camp. The luxurious tents are on stilts and have a romantic but rustic atmosphere. Game drives are three times daily; animals like hippos and giraffes also wander to the river on site. Sign-up for the unforgettable hot-air balloon ride followed by a champagne brunch in the bush.
An international group with luxury camps and hotels in Southern Africa is Orient Express Hotels, with Orient Express Safaris (previously known as Gametrackers) at the Okavango River and Delta in Botswana. At the Okavango, wildlife exists in abundance, but the wildlife only thrives with limited interference from mankind. Orient Express Safaris, they have found a good balance constructing three lodges that have been adapted to the environment surrounding them. They offer a unique safari experience in one of the world's last natural wildernesses.
Orient Express Safaris lodges and camps provide  extremely comfortable accommodations that are ecologically sound as well. Each area has been constructed with local materials that fully complement their surroundings. At every camp you are escorted by professional Rangers and guides. Their knowledge of bush-lore and love of wildlife are boundless. They possess encyclopedic knowledge of both fauna and flora and are all expert trackers with their own licences. They are, naturally, deeply respectful of the environment.
Savute Elephant Camp was the  first of Orient Express Safaris tent-styled lodges and stands as a blueprint for luxury safaris in Africa. The lodge is built largely of timber, and is housed entirely under tent canvassing. It overlooks the dry, but historic Savute channel and is set amid towering acacia trees in a rugged, desert environment of spectacular beauty. Accommodation is in 12 luxurious tents, each with its own viewing deck, air conditioning, spacious en-suite showers, toilet, his and her hand basins and large dressing area. Adjacent to the dining and lounge areas is a magnificent swimming pool, which overlooks the Savute channel. Game can be viewed from the large deck off the airy central lounge and dining area, or from open safari Range Rovers during morning and evening drives.
© February/March 2003. All rights reserved.
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